maria grazia chiuri

  • The hidden messages in Dior's couture show are somehow both sexist and feminist

    On Monday, Christian Dior kicked off the first day of Haute Couture Fashion Week in Paris with a surrealist-inspired collection. On the surface, it’s your typical runway show filled with gorgeous gowns that celebrities will clamor over to wear on the red carpet. But look closer and the clothes actually have a deeper meaning hidden in plain sight.For the show, the French fashion house transformed the Musée Rodin into a Dali fan’s dream, featuring floors made of large black and white tiles with massive white sculptures of a hand,a torso, an ear, and a nose hanging from the ceiling.Models strutted down the checkered floors wearing masks and dresses mirroring a masquerade party. But, as spotted on models’ hands — “contradictoire bal masqué,” which translates to “contradictory masked ball” — not all is what it seems.Similar statements appeared wrapped around necks, across chests, and down fingers of models from the words of French poet André Breton. Breton is credited with having founded the surrealist art movement and penning its first manifesto in 1924.One of Breton’s “tattoo” quotes read, “Au départ il ne s’agit pas de comprendre mais bien d’aimer” which translates to, “Initially, it’s not about understanding, but about loving.” Another read, “L’imaginaire. C’est ce qui tend à devenir réel,” which means, “The imagination, this is what tends to become real.” A different one featured a repetition of words, “Attitudes Spectrales Attitudes Spectrales Attitudes Spectrales,” a direct reference to Breton’s 1932 poem “The Spectral Attitudes.”The obvious connection between Breton and the collection is his ties to surrealism. But beneath the surface, Breton was not only a surrealist but actually a misogynist. As Christopher Bailey wrote for the Los Angeles Times, “In 1927 Breton’s second Surrealist manifesto embodied the general sexism of the day. He extolled women as the muses of men, who were assumed to be the important artists.” In fact, Breton also once said, “The problem of woman is the most marvelous and disturbing problem in all the world.”Yet contrary to the sexism of the era, there were several notable female surrealist artists who were not merely muses but accomplished artists: Eileen Agar, Leonora Carrington, and Leonor Fini, to name a few. The latter came from Argentina and was known for depicting strong women in her artwork. She is also quoted at the beginning of Dior’s show notes.So why feature Breton so prominently? Maria Grazia Chiuri, Dior’s artistic director, is perhaps directly responding to Breton’s antiquated views. The representation of female bodies in sexual forms was a continuous theme in surrealist art. The balance many female surrealist artists had to find was how to represent this overt sensuality in a form that was respectful and empowering — not demeaning or submissive.Chiuri attempts with her couture collection to relieve this tension, which is still present in today’s society — a pressure women have between managing in a male-dominated world and finding their place in a culture at large that’s strongly advocating for women to rise up and break the glass ceiling even as they are still faced with roadblocks.Take, for example, the recent Harvey Weinstein scandal and the #MeToo movement. Women are looking for ways to assert themselves — especially when it comes to ownership of their bodies — after years of staying quiet (and being silenced) on sexual assault. Additionally, women are helping change the conversation away from victim shaming and stereotyping based on appearance, especially when it comes to fashion where questions like “What were you wearing?” were often asked.Dior exuding strong feminist undertones is nothing new in Chiuri’s era. In 2016, the designer became the first female artistic director in the brand’s more than 70-year history. She debuted her first collection for the fashion house with her sensational feminist tee,  “We Should All Be Feminists.”Click through the gallery above for the top 15 best looks from the couture collection.Read More from Yahoo Lifestyle: • Kylie Jenner hides behind security blanket in Calvin Klein ad — and Twitter has theories why • Kaia Gerber, 16, wears clip-on earrings in ’80s style photo shoot  • Olivia Munn bought her $13,598 red carpet dress online Follow us on Instagram, Facebook, and Twitter for nonstop inspiration delivered fresh to your feed, every day.

  • All Grown Up at the Dior Guggenheim International Gala

    Kirsten Dunst, Jesse Plemons, Dave Franco, Big Sean, Kate Mara and more came out for the grown-up affair at Dior's Guggenheim International Gala.

  • Bella Hadid Wore the See-Through Dior Dress All the Celebs Are Obsessed With

    Dior Makeup brand ambassador Bella Hadid attended a launch event for the fashion house in Los Angeles on Thursday night. To celebrate Dior’s new ‘Pump ‘N’ Volume Mascara’ campaign, the 20-year-old model wore a style for the designer that she’s worn before — the extremely popular sheer, structured corset gown from Dior’s spring/summer 2017 ready-to-wear collection. The see-through gown hails from Italian fashion designer Maria Grazia Chiuri‘s first collection as the artistic director of Dior, which was was met with mixed reviews. T-shirts with feminist messages and some fencing apparel were among the styles Chiuri put forth, but the bold see-through gown was clearly a standout among members of the celeb set. Everyone from top models to leading actresses in Hollywood has been spotted in the daring statement gown.Click through the slideshow above to see which members of the celeb set love Dior’s see-through styles.Related: The Dior Show Is Every Bit Our Beautiful, Dark, Twisted FantasyRelated: Rihanna and Natalie Portman Gave New Dior Feminist Collection Major Support This WeekendFollow us on Instagram, Facebook, and Pinterest for nonstop inspiration delivered fresh to your feed, every day.

  • The Dior Show Is Every Bit Our Beautiful, Dark, Twisted Fantasy

    In the Brothers Grimm version of Little Red Riding Hood, a young girl ventures deep into a dark forest to deliver food to her sick grandmother, unaware of the wicked wolf waiting to eat her. Depending on which version of the story you were told as a child, the fairy tale may have kept you up at night or lulled you to sleep. Italian designer Maria Grazia Chiuri’s first couture show for Dior is much like the story of Little Red (or if you prefer the Italian version, The False Grandmother) — equal parts whimsical and grim.

  • Rihanna and Natalie Portman Gave New Dior Feminist Collection Major Support This Weekend

    Maria Grazia Chiuri is Dior's first female creative director. And wares from her first, feminist show could be seen on some big names at this weekend’s marches. Especially popular was her "We Should All Be Feminists” tee, which was rocked by the likes of brand ambassadors Rihanna and Natalie Portman. Jennifer Lawrence has also worn the tee.

  • Maria Grazia Chiuri Sticks With Women-First Policy for Her First Dior Ad Campaign

    Maria Grazia Chiuri kept her women-first policy for her first advertising for the French house.

  • See Dior’s New Direction Unfold Before Your Eyes, Right Here…

    Did your Dior invite get lost in the mail? Don’t worry — you can tag along with us. Dior is always one of Paris Fashion Week’s most anticipated shows, and that’s never been more true than this season, when the legendary house will debut its first-ever collection under new artistic director Maria Grazia Chiuri, who takes over from former creative director Raf Simons. News of Chiuri’s appointment to the venerable fashion house sent a major stir through the world of fashion in July, and Chiuri told media then that she “cannot wait to express my own vision. ...

  • What Maria Grazia’s Move to Dior Means for the Future of Fashion

    It was announced this morning that Maria Grazia Chiuri, formerly co-creative director of Valentino, has been appointed as the creative director of Christian Dior — an especially noteworthy installment, given that she is the first female head of a label that is often described as a bastion of Parisian femininity. The unveiling follows months of speculation after Raf Simons’s departure from Dior in October last year. Pierpaolo Piccioli, with whom Chiuri ran Valentino, will remain at the Italian label as its sole chief.

  • Valentino Confirms Departure of Maria Grazia Chiuri

    Valentino has confirmed the news that Maria Grazia Chiuri is leaving the design house reports WWD. The duo, who presented their last collection together at the Valentino couture show in Paris on Wednesday evening, were chosen by Valentino Garavani to work on the accessories category of the brand, before being promoted to creative directors in 2008. “A new and exciting phase for the brand begins under the creative leadership of Pierpaolo Piccioli.

  • Report: Dior to Appoint First-Ever Female Creative Director

    Seventy-year-old French fashion house Dior reportedly will soon appoint a female creative director for the first time ever. At least two sources have disclosed that Valentino’s Maria Grazia Chiuri will be trading Milan for Paris to head up the iconic maison.

  • Valentino Says That ‘Primitive’ Africa-Inspired Collection Was Really About Tolerance

    From Chanel’s Native American headdresses to Valentino’s recent Africa-inspired collection, there’s at least one show per season that leaves the industry cringing.  In Paris last month, Valentino’s creative directors Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli sent Masai-inspired beading, feathered skirts, and white models with cornrows down their runway. We don’t want to please the others—we want to do something that we believe in.” OK, but why appropriate Africa? “After [the Rome-themed Fall 2015 couture collection] we felt that we had to move,” clarified Piccioli.