Sulvam Men’s Spring 2023
Teppei Fujita wanted to communicate a sense of lightness, focusing on the movement of his fabrics, as if they were lifted and billowed by a breeze. He staged his Sulvam presentation in the street outside his new Paris workshop — he now divides his time between France and Japan. In the oppressive heat of late June, there was nary a gust in the air.
Nevertheless, his fabrics undulated with the models’ movements, keeping their promise in this largely unisex collection, while maintaining structure thanks to his mastery of the tailored form. Lightweight coats in natural fabrics had linings that hung loose in what has become a house signature for Sulvam. This season, they were crafted from satiny Cupro, and trailed the models along the street. Matching pants were worn cropped and wide, their lining hanging below the hem.
More from WWD
Tommy Cash Was Nearly Naked at Rick Owens' Paris Fashion Week Show
Justin Timberlake, J Balvin Pay Tribute to Virgil Abloh at Louis Vuitton Show
A striking crop-trousered suit was made from a specially developed fabric that looked like tie silk but was more lightweight, with a diagonal stripe and a quirky look.
With a desire to reduce his label’s environmental impact — last season Fujita worked with Japanese mills to develop recycled yarns — he turned fabric scraps into design features, sewing them around pockets to form ribbon-like strips that flapped in shades to match the contrasting lining on several looks.
Launch Gallery: Sulvam Men's Spring 2023
Sign up for WWD's Newsletter. For the latest news, follow us on Twitter, Facebook, and Instagram.
