Travel restrictions linked to the coronavirus pandemic have made life for foreign designers in Paris an either/or proposition. Since shuttling back and forth is no longer an option, they must choose their FOMO: work remotely or spend extended periods away from family and friends.
Daniel Roseberry was stuck in Manhattan during lockdown, sketching collections and connecting with the Schiaparelli teams in Paris via Zoom. Since returning to the French capital in July, he’s not been able to go back to the U.S.
Instead, he’s been finding new avenues for his creativity: for the first time, the designer also shot the look book for the collection. “It was so much fun. It was nerve-racking also, because I literally — to be totally honest — have never picked up a camera before this day of the shoot,” he confessed.
He photographed models Maggie Maurer and Rouguy Faye in some of his favorite spots, ranging from the Jacques Lacoste gallery to Left Bank café La Palette and the Schiaparelli salons on Place Vendôme. Roseberry even came up with what is arguably the world’s most exclusive face mask: a made-to-measure gilt mold of Maurer’s lower face.
His spring lineup stuck to the playbook he wrote last season: elevated wardrobe staples such as LBDs and trouser suits with precious hardware details. An ivory silk crepe jacket was fastened with the house’s signature padlock, while a navy tailored coat featured removable gold nipple brooches, a detail reprised on suit jackets.
“The nipples give the collection an edge,” he said, noting that founder Elsa Schiaparelli’s mantra was “hard chic.” “If there was a woman who walked in the room wearing it, I think you’d scream.”
Further examples of edgy sophistication: the thick gold chain holding up a pleated panel on a black bustier evening gown, and chunky zodiac sign necklaces — part of an expanded selection of accessories that also included a new line of handbags adorned with Surrealist elements like eyes, noses and lips.
With the opening of Schiaparelli’s shop-in-shop at Bergdorf Goodman postponed until spring, and trunk shows on hold, the next trip tentatively penciled in on his agenda is a pre-awards season visit to Los Angeles in December.
Beyoncé, Cynthia Erivo and, more recently, Regina King have all worn his creations on the red carpet, so even if travel proves impossible, Roseberry hopes to dress more celebrities next year. “It’s so inspiring. Yeah, that’s all that I would need,” he mused.
Launch Gallery: Schiaparelli RTW Spring 2021