It seems that this season more than any other, emerging brands have been taking up a lot of the conversation space during fashion week. Sandy Liang is a young designer who plays to the quieter side of experimentation and subversion, and her first runway show has been long anticipated. “It was a lot of fun,” Liang said backstage. “I think I’m only ever going to do runway. I feel like we’re really ready for it. I’m starting to let go a little bit and just focus on design.”
Liang garnered attention with some enviable oversize outerwear cut with fur sleeves, and each season thereafter has slowly evolved her brand to suit her personal needs: folding in cut-and-sew knitwear, sweet-yet-quirky day dresses, and for spring, options for formal events. “I think that more and more as I’m getting older, I have real adult events to go to and I don’t even know what I want to wear,” she added.
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“What feels like me?” Her answer: sheer and billowy neon dresses, apparently. Balancing striking color and playfulness, they were cool and offbeat in the way you’d expect from the brand, and also maintained multiwear opportunities through their sheer design depending on how they’re styled. One standout was unexpectedly worn over a floral catsuit, but it worked, and there were variations of sheer separates in neon and flesh tones that you could chalk up to Liang having more time now to think and play around (by doing a runway show, she doesn’t have to shoot a look book before fashion week).
There’s always a bit of cheeky humor to her clothes. This season that was seen in the introduction of schoolgirl-like jewelry, a cutesy baby-doll dress with iridescent sheen, and men in gender-ambiguous looks. Familiar items like utility jackets and fleece were worn over flirty gingham dresses, and garter-belt accents were brought onto great ruched tops paired with long skirts for another take on nighttime dressing. One graphic T-shirt featuring the SpongeBob SquarePants cast redrawn to be sporting her clothes stood out most. “They let me redraw it and do my thing,” she said, adding: “I’m a die-hard SpongeBob fan and I’m proud of that.”
Read more from WWD:
WATCH: NYFW Spring 2020: Getting Dressed With Christopher John Rogers
Launch Gallery: Sandy Liang RTW Spring 2020