Pineapples and palm trees, twinkling bunches of grapes and tributes to the late Queen Elizabeth: Fausto Puglisi’s spring collection had it all, and then some. Puglisi, who was wearing a T-shirt with Cecil Beaton’s image of the queen in all her regalia, was going for 1950s-era, Hollywood sirens and the red-carpet stars of yesteryear.
There was certainly a lot of drama here, although some of it was unintentional.
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A curvy sheath adorned with a glittering palm tree brooch opened the show and set the tone for a collection full of dizzying fruit, flora and animal prints, many of which were spliced together or supersized, such as the glittering bunch of grapes on the front of a teeny minidress.
But in the midst of it all, the models ran into trouble, slipping and sliding as they left the catwalk for the backstage. Moisture from the smoke machine, which was pumping long before the show started, was most likely the culprit. It was distracting, and broke the spell of this long, noisy — and overwhelming — show.
The color and print were another distraction, obscuring the simpler pieces: the sheath that opened the show; a fluid cream dress with a pleated skirt and a low neckline, and a draped and wrapped minidress with a single, rounded satin sleeve, moments of calm in a maelstrom of design.
Launch Gallery: Roberto Cavalli RTW Spring 2023