Provisional Paris Couture Schedule Includes Valentino, Thom Browne, Charles de Vilmorin
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PARIS — It’s going to be a bumper summer for haute couture, according to the provisional calendar published by the Fédération de la Haute Couture et de la Mode on Monday.
With 32 houses revealing their fall 2023 collections on the runway between July 3 and 6, the upcoming Paris Couture Week schedule will be one of the biggest yet. It will see the arrival of Thom Browne and Paris-based Ashi Studio, as well as the return of Charles de Vilmorin.
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As previously reported, Valentino will be staging its couture show at 7:30 p.m. on July 5 at the Château de Chantilly, a historic 14th-century estate located 30 miles north of Paris.
Whetting appetites ahead of the buzzy four-day couture week, two houses will show their spring 2024 ready-to-wear collections on July 2, with Patou taking the 6 p.m. spot and Alaïa following with an 8 p.m. show time.
The showcase will kick off with Schiaparelli, once again taking the 10 a.m. slot on July 3. It will be the busiest day, with a total of nine shows.
That Monday will see the 5 p.m. arrival of New York-based designer Thom Browne, who last October in Paris showed his rtw retelling of Cinderella featuring Gwendoline Christie and MJ Rodriguez.
De Vilmorin, who parted ways with Rochas in April after a two-year tenure, will be back on the official schedule with his eponymous couture line at 6 p.m. after showing off-calendar in July 2022.
The second day will follow a classic configuration, with Chanel opening at 10 a.m. on July 4, followed by Alexis Mabille, Stéphane Rolland, Alexandre Vauthier, Ronald van der Kemp’s RVDK label and a double show by Armani Privé at 6:30 and 7:30 p.m., respectively.
The next day, before heading to the manicured greenery around Paris for Valentino’s show, there will be Balenciaga at noon and Julien Dossena’s turn as guest couturier at Jean Paul Gaultier at 2:30 p.m.
In an exclusive interview in March, Dossena, who serves as creative director of Paco Rabanne, said he plans to take in a broad sweep of Gaultier’s long fashion career, striving to make his one-off couture collection for fall 2023 as rich and “generous” as the veteran designer’s legacy.
At the time, Dossena hinted that his runway show would approximate the intimacy of Gaultier’s earliest shows in the Galerie Vivienne, when the clothes nearly brushed the knees of the spectators lining that narrow covered shopping passage.
Yuima Nakazato, Viktor & Rolf, Elie Saab and Zuhair Murad will also be showing on July 5.
Fendi will take the 2:30 p.m. slot on July 6, the final day of the fall 2023 couture season that will also see the on-schedule debut of 16-year-old couture label Ashi Studio at 10 a.m.
Hailing from Saudi Arabia, the designer known as Ashi became enamored with the textiles and couture heritage he discovered as a child at the knee of his father, a renowned textile merchant.
Having studied fashion design and pattern-making at Esmod, Ashi cut his teeth at Givenchy under Riccardo Tisci before heading to Elie Saab, where he was creative director. He opened his own studio in 2007, showcasing his designs through intimate presentations.
After splitting his time between Beirut and Paris for the better part of 15 years, the couture designer has now chosen the latter as his base, putting on a formal off-calendar runway show in January 2019 and moved to the City of Lights from 2020.
Also showing on July 6 will be Imane Ayissi, Juana Martin, Gaurav Gupta and Maison Sara Chraibi and veteran designer Adeline André, who will close the official schedule with her 6 p.m. show.
Meanwhile, while most high jewelry houses will have already shown their designs through glittering destination presentations in Athens, Lake Como, Venice or London. De Beers, Boucheron, Anna Hu and pearl specialist Mikimoto will be presenting their latest designs during couture week in Paris, while Louis Vuitton will showcase a new crop of high-end timepieces on July 5.
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