Plant Pumpkins Now for a Fall Harvest

Photo credit: JENNIFER E. WOLF - Getty Images
Photo credit: JENNIFER E. WOLF - Getty Images


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Whether they're on display on your front porch or made into pies and quick breads, pumpkins mean fall has arrived at last! They're amazing in our best pumpkin recipes and fun to decorate, too. And they're not too difficult to grow—if you give yourself plenty of time (and space). If you want to harvest in autumn, mid-summer is the time to plant seeds. And while a lot of edibles can be planted in containers, that's not the case with pumpkins. They need a ton of room! They're also enticing to a several different pests, so you'll need to pay attention and inspect your plants every day or so to ensure common pumpkin pests, such as cucumber beetles and squash bugs, and common pumpkin diseases, such as powdery mildew, don't ruin your crop. It can happen overnight, so don't get complacent!

Here's how to grow pumpkins in your own back yard:

  • Exposure: Full sun (6 or more hours per day)

  • USDA Hardiness Zones: 3-9

  • When to plant: Late May to early July

  • Pests and diseases to watch out for: Powdery mildew, cucumber beetles, squash bugs

How to Plant Pumpkin Seeds

Pumpkins are one of those crops that are best planted from seed because transplanting pumpkin seedlings can be iffy. "Pumpkins do best if you plant seeds directly in the ground," says John Esslinger, horticulture educator with Penn State Extension. "Plant seeds three to five feet apart in full sun about an inch to 1.5 inches deep. Some gardeners recommend planting them atop a hill or mound of soil, but that's not necessary."

Plant seeds after the last frost date in your area in spring (check with your local university coop extension service for an estimate of that date here). Or plant in early to mid-July if you want a fall crop for decorating or baking. To make sure your crop has enough time to grow to full size before the first frost in the fall, read the seed package to learn the "days to maturity." Then count backwards from the first expected frost date (again, your local university coop can help you with this estimate) to determine the last date you can plant pumpkin seeds in your area.

While some pumpkin varieties can grow up to 20 feet long, many newer types are more compact. But "compact" is a relative term, and these vines still require plenty of room. Smaller types typically need about six square feet of ground. Read the package to ensure you're choosing a variety that will fit in your garden. Good types for smaller gardens include Orange Smoothie, Blue Prince, and Pumpkin Pepitas.

Although pumpkins have both male and female flowers on one plant, they require pollinators (usually bees) to set fruit, so be wary about using pesticides. And if you don't already have flowers in your garden, plant pollinator-friendly plants including annuals or perennials to attract them! It's good for your pumpkins and all your other edibles, too.

How to Care for Pumpkins

Make sure you weed and feed your pumpkin crop. No matter which pumpkin variety you decide to grow, keep the area weeded. Pumpkins have feeder roots near the surface, and weeding reduces competition for nutrients and water and promotes better air circulation, which helps pumpkins fend off diseases. Feed pumpkins once within a few weeks of planting with a general-purpose 10-10-10 fertilizer, says Esslinger.

Give them plenty of water. Pumpkins like tons of water when the flowers and fruits are forming. If you're having a dry spell, vines wilt or flowers shrivel and drop off. "If there's no rain, water deeply once a week. A large vine needs about three gallons of water to soak the area," says Esslinger. "If you water more often and less deeply, you're training the roots to be too shallow."

Look for cucumber beetles. Around the same time the baby pumpkins are appearing on the vine, the damaging pests show up. Watch out for cucumber beetles, small pale greenish-yellow beetles with black stripes or spots, about half the size of the more commonly-recognized Japanese beetle. "The cucumber beetle carries bacteria in its gut, leaving it behind as it feeds. In a few weeks, the plants collapse," says Esslinger. Cucumber beetles are not easily picked by hand, so you may need to apply a botanical insecticide called pyrethrin. Follow the label, and don't spray when pollinators are present.

Watch for squash bugs. Another common pumpkin pest are squash bugs, which hang out on the underside of leaves when the flowers bloom or when fruit appears. Look for masses of root beer-colored eggs, or the young, which look like large aphids with long spider-like legs. Adults resemble stink bugs. Catch them early or they can take the plant down, says Esslinger. Use spinosad, an organic insecticide made from a type of soil-dwelling bacteria.

Keep an eye out for disease. Powdery mildew is the most common disease, which first appears as a nickel-sized greyish dusty spot. You can leave it alone because it seldom kills plants, or use a sulfur fungicide for a few weeks for control. Almost all pumpkins eventually will develop fungus in the fall, though, so don't be too hard on yourself if you discover it.

Don't interfere with Nature. Many gardeners suggest picking off some forming fruit to boost yield, but the plant knows what's best to set, says Esslinger.

How long does it take for a pumpkin to grow?

Most types mature in 90 to 100 days, but it can take as long as 120 days for pumpkins to grow to full size. Read the seed package so you'll know what to expect and plant so that you'll have plenty of time to harvest before a frost; pumpkins tolerate zero cold!

When to harvest pumpkins?

Pumpkins are ready to pick when the fruit is fully colored (depending on the type, that may be orange, white, speckled or blue!) and the stems begin to shrivel. Wear gloves because the vines are super-prickly. Cut through the stem leaving about 6 to 8 inches (don't try to twist it off the vine). Then lift and carry your pumpkin by the bottom, not the stem, which can break off.


GROWER TIP: "Look for varieties that are resistant to powdery mildew, which is the plant's biggest disease issue," says John Esslinger, horticulture educator with Penn State Extension.


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