Day-to-night dressing was the focus for Paul Smith for spring, as the British designer aimed to show more dressed up looks for the woman who “is on the arm of our young actors,” he said, noting the creatives he’s been dressing in Hollywood recently — Greta Gerwig, Laura Dern, Moses Boyd and Hero Fiennes-Tiffin among them.
Cobalt blue or chartreuse green ruched jersey body-con goddess dresses would light up the night, while a puffed sleeve blue cloud print number was sunny as the designer’s disposition.
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He picked up a few bits of ‘80s inspiration, giving a hand-airbrushed earth tone suit a slightly oversize silhouette, the blazer with exaggerated lapels and padded shoulders, and trousers a more generous, voluminous fit. A cream and black linen tuxedo had a similar look. The hand-airbrushing was really quite cool, especially on a sunset-hued trench.
There were several other more youthful takes on tailoring, such as a lavender bustier top that can be over a matching silk shirt and high-waist trousers for a new twist on the three-piece, and an ochre sleeveless vest with asymmetrical closure and matching shorts for the new, more relaxed office.
A Paul Smith stripe tank swimsuit styled with silk trousers and easy sandals paired with suits added to the more easygoing vibe, a welcome departure for the designer.
“It’s that feeling you are coming back to the city and you’re still half on vacation, you’re wearing a suit because you’re back in London, and you notice you’re still wearing the boat shoes,” Smith said.
Resort as a state of mind.
Launch Gallery: Paul Smith RTW Spring 2023