Inspired by Chinese writer Hao Jingfang’s science fiction work “Vagabonds,” Christa Bösch and Cosima Gadient combined their quirky, deconstructed body-con with padded, protective forms in a more three-dimensional register. The strapping details that are a house signature took on a more functional aspect, giving the collection a utilitarian look while referencing organic forms, as if they grew out of the body. There were also pieces featuring artworks by Bronx-based Cheyenne Julien, who explores racial inequality in her phantasmagoric paintings. These were stretched across mesh designs in a colorful play on political commentary.
The look: Utilitarian meets slinky body-con via deconstructed knits, puffer jackets and suiting in a color palette of murky brights with quirky straps and accessories that wound around the body, creating what looked a little like futuristic armor.
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Quote of note: “We had more time to think about the state of the world, because things have changed a lot and we are thinking of future scenarios and what the future of Ottolinger looks like,” said Gadient.
Standout pieces: The printed mesh pieces featuring artworks by Cheyenne Julien; stretch skirts and stone-washed pieces in sunset colors; a khaki shearling coat with a metallic finish; snake-like “belts” that wound around the body.
Takeaway: For times when life seems stranger than fiction and we don’t know what the future holds, Bösch and Gadient had it covered in this dystopian yet upbeat wardrobe for today’s urban warrior.
Launch Gallery: Ottolinger RTW Fall 2021