I wouldn’t usually start a review with the end of the show, but when your final look is rocked by supermodel Naomi Campbell, it would be rude not to.
Anthony Vaccarello always presents his collections in two parts, the second being an ode to the house’s famous Le Smoking (black tuxedo). Today in Paris, Campbell modeled a completely sequined version, cinched at the waist and teamed with those toe-cleavage ankle-strap pumps that featured throughout.
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She can afford to be choosy these days — from memory she closed Kim Jones’ finale Louis Vuitton show alongside Kate Moss, and both opened and closed what we later learned to be Azzadine Alaia’s last show.
As for the rest, footwear was about tall, knee-grazing boots, a slight dip hinting at a Western silhouette, ruched boots including burnished gold and leopard print, plus Opyum alternative, the strappy Cassandra sandal bearing the label’s logo flush against the front of the foot.
Special mention goes to that stirrup pant stiletto vibe on Kaia Gerber. She modeled the grand total of three look in the show.
However, while the footwear will certainly set Kering tills a ringing, it won’t have the same editorial traction as the label’s last “it shoe,” that iconic crystal slouch boot. But maybe that’s the point. While 99.9 percent of the population were nowhere near being able to afford it, it certainly brought the brand attention, and, more importantly, vast sales across the more commercial lines.
But Vaccarello time and doubtless something else will materialize. After all, it’s pretty difficult to replicate the success of an “it shoe” of that magnitude. Along with that, Gucci and now Bottega, Saint Laurent’s luxury conglomerate parent Kering, has a record for producing “it shoes.” As for who’s next in line, only time will tell.
A final word on the staging. This featured phalanxes of robotic strobe lights set into holes in the runway itself. Models circumnavigated them with aplomb. Show-goers, not so much. I saw at least one guest come a cropper while attempting to make a speedy exit in the dark. A sneaker-wearing male as it goes as opposed to an Opyum sporting lady. Just saying.
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