Believe it or not, Asian blepharoplasty, also known as double eyelid surgery, is more popular than rhinoplasty. In 2015, 1,264,702 eyelid surgeries were performed, making it one of the top three procedures in the world, behind breast augmentation and liposuction, according to the International Society of Aesthetic Plastic Surgery. It’s the most popular form of plastic surgery in South Korea, with 101,985 procedures performed last year.
However, that number may soon be dwindling, thanks to Asian influencers who are embracing the eyelids they were born with. Seeing K-Pop stars such as Son Ga-in from Brown Eyed Girls and Ahn So-hee from the Wonder Girls, who both have natural eyelids, has helped many Asian women accept their appearance, and makeup artists are starting to teach young women how to enhance their lids without surgery.
This wasn’t always the case, unfortunately.
“I definitely grew up hating my eyes,” Francesca Tanmizi says. She has monolids, also known as epicanthic folds, a common eye shape among people of East Asian and Southeast Asian descent, where the lids cover the inner corner of the eyes, making them appear to have no crease.
She considered going under the knife because of pressure from her relatives and peers — surprise, surprise — who made her feel as though having a double eyelid would make her more beautiful. However, when she was 16 she met a makeup artist who would change her life (we’ve all been there); he taught her makeup techniques that complemented her features. That was the day she stopped trying to conceal or alter her eye shape and started embracing it, she says.
Twelve years later, Tanmizi is one of the influencers responsible for changing the way we see eyelids. Her Instagram, Working With Monolids, where she posts daily makeup tutorials for different eye shapes, has nearly 20,000 fans. “I’m hoping that, with more and more monolid girls doing their own makeup, people won’t think it’s weird,” she says.
Her posts range from pictorials on accessorizing your lids, like with googly eyes or glitter, to videos of creating the crease without surgery.
I’m so ready for Halloween! Anyone can recommend a good white liner? I’m currently using @jeffreestarcosmetics’ and I don’t think it’s really designed to be a liner since it cracks. Also using @nyxcosmetics_indonesia @nyxcosmetics’s gel liner!
A photo posted by Francesca (@workingwithmonolids) on Oct 7, 2016 at 5:58pm PDT
Here’s the pictorial for this look! I tried condensing everything into one picture, so I’m hoping I didn’t end up making it hard to follow…if you find this hard to follow, the video tutorial’s linked in my bio! 1. Apply primer first, then draw a wavy, winged line above your eye with a black eyeliner. Don’t worry if this is messy, and be sure to do this with your eyes opened! Apply a translucent powder above this line so it’s easy to blend things out later. 2. With a fluffy blending brush, blend out this black line with a brown eyeshadow. Make sure the top part is smoked out well. Keep switching between the brown and translucent powder to get the softest smoke. Be really patient with this, and don’t worry if this takes ages! I think I spent at least 5 minutes on this step alone. 3. Once that’s smooth and blended over, use a pencil brush to blend in a black eyeshadow in the place where the eyeliner line was. Use a fluffy blending brush to blend this into the brown, making sure the transition is smooth. 4. Now grab a concealer and erase out the crease. See how you’re getting that smooth, sharp “cut”? Don’t worry about the messy bottom bit, we’ll clean that later. 5. Pat on a light coloured eyeshadow over the concealer. then line your eyes any way you want. We’ll use the wipe trick to clean the bottom bit –grab a cotton pad soaked in eye makeup remover, fold it in half, place it where you want the base of your wing to be, and swipe up. 6. Line your waterline with the light eyeshadow. Then line the outer 1/3 of your lower lashline with the brown eyeshadow. Blend it inwards. Pick between false lashes or mascara! Lashes are @esqido’s Lash Named Desire!
A photo posted by Francesca (@workingwithmonolids) on Sep 12, 2016 at 7:11pm PDT
Pam Sugiman, the dean of arts at Ryerson University, whose research focuses on gender and race, says that “a lack of makeup products geared towards people with monolids has contributed to women’s desire to modify their features,” according to Broadly. “Most makeup products are not for Asian eyes,” she says. On top of that, there aren’t a lot of women with monolids featured in mainstream media, Michelle Cho, an East Asian studies professor at McGill University, points out, which contributes to the desire for double eyelid surgery.
Kar Yi Lim, who works as the beauty editor at Mochi magazine, loves that the monolid is becoming mainstream. “It was nice seeing those different kinds of styles, in contrast to a lot of the famous pop stars who had very prominent big eyes,” she says, referencing K-Pop stars Ga-in and So-hee.
Lim hopes to create a more diverse representation of beauty and style through Mochi.
Of course, this will take time, which is why Tanmizi still gets offensive comments. People still suggest she do double eyelid surgery, saying that if she had bigger eyes “maybe her makeup would be less shit.”
“I’m more flabbergasted than hurt, because I can’t believe people still do this in 2016!” she says of seeing negative comments.
And many young girls are still considering the surgery. “Usually I tell them, ‘If you’re even having doubts, don’t go through with it,” Tanmizi says. “Don’t do it because of peer pressure. It’s a horrible, horrible feeling.”
However, the impact Tanmizi’s having is clear in the comments. One user tagged a friend in a smokey eye shot and wrote, “@joannee.m You could do this instead of wishing for double eyelids… ????????????” On another post of a yellow and black design, a user was excited to see this style for “hooded lids,” which is another type of eyelid structure. “@missymeow_ there you go boo wing liner for hooded lids!” they wrote.
Tanmizi is opening peoples’ eyes to a whole new world of makeup.