Molly Goddard RTW Spring 2020

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What a moment for Molly: Not only has her billowing pink tulle dress been blasted onto the world’s TV screens thanks to “Killing Eve,” her signature voluminous silhouettes — puckered, pleated, ruffled or breezy and sheer — have been copied by many a high-street store this season. Her designs will also be featured in a British Academy of Film and Television Arts exhibition starting Sept. 17 in London.

Goddard’s response to all this was to serve up a collection with more of the same — and move on, too, with slimmer tulle styles, a dash of denim, and rustling, crumpled taffeta skirts. She didn’t overthink it. “I was just looking back to the designs that I liked the most over the past five years — even my failed M.A. work,” said Goddard, who started — but never finished — her master’s degree program at Central Saint Martins, where she studied under the late famed professor Louise Wilson.

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For spring, Goddard also wanted her big volumes to stand alone, without underpinnings, so this season she worked on creating self-sustaining volume in her dresses and skirts using “weird, big pin-tucky things, massive panels and big circles,” said the designer, describing the collection as “raw, straight, simple and more about individual looks,” rather than a single, overarching theme.

It worked, and nearly every piece in the collection had a big, rip-roaring life of its own. Goddard blew up volumes — like the lemonade yellow gown, electric blue prom dress and giant rustling pouf skirts — then reined them back in, slipping sheer lemon toned tulle over black skirts and dresses, or nipping the sleeves and waist of a short, saucy white dress with black ribbons.

Goddard worked her love of volume into a long dark denim dress with fabric flowers at the front, and a big swooshing hem that will most certainly be swept up by the high-street stores come next year.

Launch Gallery: Molly Goddard RTW Spring 2020

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