Midwinter marvels: The best British outdoor breaks for December

Winter often gets a bad press. After all, even the most talented of spin doctors would find it hard to ignore the typical weather conditions of the average British winter. Wet, cold and dark are words that, for most of us, send shivers down the spine.

But what, our smiling purveyor of fun-filled fantasies might say, about feeling your cheeks start to glow as you sip mulled wine around a roaring fire after a bracing walk along the cliffs of Cornwall? Or watching 150 meteors every hour streaking across the night sky in Northumberland’s Dark Sky reserve during December’s Geminid meteor shower? Or warming your hands around a steaming cup of cocoa as you gaze out from your glamping pod over the snow drifts blanketing the Yorkshire Dales as the sun begins to set?

The truth is that winter, like most things in life, is what you make it. True, the joys of summer are a lot easier to capture. Just open that window and the warm air and the smell of new-mown grass can immediately inspire a Proustian ecstasy. And this year, of all years, we have more challenges to contend with than most of us have experienced in our lifetimes.

Winter’s reward factor, however, is arguably greater than for any other season. The allure of a wind-swept coastline with breakers crashing on the rocks below is very different from the traditional midsummer beach holiday, but the exhilaration, both in the teeth of a gale and on returning to base for pre-Christmas mince pies and roaring log fires, is hard to beat at any other time of year.

All the more reason then, when lockdown ends on Dec 2, to wrap up warm and grasp that frozen icicle. Embracing the outdoors, as many studies have shown, is good for both our health and psychological well-being, as well as generating creativity and giving a sense of purpose to our lives. Benefits that we all need, now more than ever.

The midwinter marvels here are a selection of the best and most exhilarating outdoor experiences on offer this December. They range from a new “cocooning” experience in the Herefordshire seeing the stars from the warmth of an ­insulated hammock, to reindeer ­watching in Scotland and horse riding on Dartmoor.

They all have suggestions for the very best local accommodation from five-star luxury hotels to a converted Edwardian mansion on the beach with self-catering apartments.

So if glamping in the Yorkshire Dales sounds a little too bracing, why not stay at a luxury Georgian mansion in Somerset exploring its magical gardens, lakes and maze before sampling cider made from the estate’s apples and settling down to a gourmet dinner? Perhaps I should have been a spin doctor after all.

Celestial fireworks

Northumberland 

December’s night skies will see some of the fiercest celestial displays of the year including the Geminid meteor showers (Dec 7-16) peaking on the 13th with up to 150 meteors an hour.  This will be followed by a “super conjunction” of Jupiter and Saturn on the winter solstice (Dec 21) when the two biggest planets in our solar system will be closer than they have been since 1623. Northumberland’s International Dark Sky Park is the largest area of protected night sky in Europe.

Three nights at The Barn, Slaggyford, costs from £843 (sleeps eight; 01573 226711; crabtreeandcrabtree.com). Really Wild Stargazing activities from £100 (astro.ventures).

Northumberland will move into Tier 3 of  England's tiered system from December 2. Under Tier 3, hotels must close and  the Government advises against visiting.

Going coastal

Cornwall

Opened in July, this latest incarnation of the legendary Pig “restaurant-with-rooms” concept, is located on one of the most beautiful stretches of the North Cornish coast. Surrounded by five acres of gardens from which the restaurant’s seasonal menus are sourced, the latest Pig occupies one of Cornwall’s most historic houses – a Grade II listed mansion with panoramic sea views. After a bracing coastal walk, nothing tastes quite as good as the Pig’s signature “Lobster & Camel”, the ultimate combo of lobster, thrice-cooked chips and Camel Valley Pinot Noir Rosé Brut.

Double rooms from £235pp a night including dinner (0345 225 9494; thepighotel.com).

Cornwall will move into Tier 1: there are no restrictions on accommodation, except for the rule of six.

Fires, feasting & festivity

Somerset

Enjoy the ultimate romantic festive weekend with a five-star Christmas stay at The Newt in Somerset, one of the UK’s finest country house hotels. Experiences include garden tours, walks in the deer park, and wildlife that includes owls, badgers, bats and the great crested newt.

Indoor options include cider tastings in the cellar and afternoons in the spa. Christmas at The Newt (Dec 23-27) starts from £2,775pp including gourmet festive meals throughout (01963 577777; thenewtinsomerset.com).

South Somerset will move into Tier 2: no household mixing is allowed, but holidays can continue.

Get outdoors

Sussex

Perfect for an active festive retreat on the Sussex coast (dogs welcome), the Bailiffscourt is a medieval-style country house surrounded by 30 acres of private parkland leading to Climping Beach, near Arundel, in West Sussex. Many of its rooms are in separate buildings in the grounds, perfect for families looking for their own space. The hotel has electric bikes and is close to the Arundel Wetland Centre with its vibrant birdlife.

A Sandy Paws package complete with treats for your pooch costs from £440 for two including three-course dinner (01903 723511; hshotels.co.uk/bailiffscourt).

West Sussex will move into Tier 2: no household mixing is allowed, but holidays can continue.

Go wild

Scottish Highlands

One of the most high-profile rewilding projects in the UK, the 23,000-acre Alladale Wilderness Reserve, an hour’s drive north of Inverness, is home to otters, red squirrels and mountain hares, with wildcats being bred for release. Birds of prey include white-tailed and golden eagles (left). Alladale offers guided safaris and foraging walks staying at three fully-catered lodges for groups of between two and 30 guests.

Stays at Alladale are available Dec 2-19 with the lodge itself costing from £900 per night. Last-minute offers available based on guest requirements (01863 755338; alladale.com).

Under Scottish government guidance, you cannot travel to Scotland for non-essential reasons after the lockdown ends in England.

Deer, oh deer

Devon

On a crisp winter’s day, Dartmoor National Park’s atmospheric river valleys and wild open moorlands are one of the UK’s most inspirational backdrops for hiking, cycling or horse riding. Set in 275 acres, Bovey Castle has recently opened a deer park where guests can learn about and feed the herd of fallow deer (£30pp for a one-hour tour).

A two-night pre-Christmas staycation costs from £319pp, including one dinner and an afternoon champagne tea (01647 445007; boveycastle.com).

Devon will move into Tier 2: no household mixing is allowed, but holidays can continue.

Cocoon yourself in winter

Herefordshire

Located in the foothills of the Black Mountains in Herefordshire, the Drovers Rest is a 16th-century organic farm. Surrounded by 40 acres of woodlands, meadows and orchards, the emphasis is on meeting the animals, hiking in the hills, and watching local wildlife, which includes a huge badger sett on Little Mountain. A new “cocooning” experience offers stargazing from the comfort of a fully insulated hammock.

A three-night stay for two adults and two children in December costs from £395 (07908 162598; droversrest.co.uk).

Herefordshire will move into Tier 2: no household mixing is allowed, but holidays can continue.

Take a spin

Scotland

Explore the Scottish Highlands by car with guided excursions along the way. These include a day with Britain’s only free-ranging herd of reindeer, hiking into ancient Caledonian pine forests on the Speyside Way, visiting a local distillery, enjoying a stargazing experience with a rare (but possible) sighting of the Northern Lights, and a hike to the remote Ryvoan bothy along an old droving road for lunch in the wilderness.

Five nights from £1,785pp inc B&B accommodation, two lunches, private guiding and excursions (01479 420020; wildernessscotland.com).

Under Scottish government guidance, you cannot travel to Scotland for non-essential reasons after the lockdown ends in England.

Explore the dunes

Devon

The North Devon Coast Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty is one of the most beautiful stretches of the South West Coast Path with wild coastal cliffs, waterfalls, rocky coves, sandy beaches and wooded valleys. At its heart is Braunton Burrows, a Unesco World Biosphere Reserve and one of the largest sand dune systems in the British Isles – home to large numbers of rare plants and animals.

Knelle Lodge, a large Edwardian house with four apartments, overlooks Saunton Beach and the Reserve. Price for an apartment in December from £539 to £1,315 per week (knellelodge.co.uk).   

Devon will move into Tier 2: no household mixing is allowed, but holidays can continue.

Pull on your boots

Peak District 

The UK’s first National Park is the start of the Pennine Way, the UK’s first long-distance footpath, and a hub for outdoor sports. The Duncombe Arms in Dovedale is the perfect base for walking routes including Kinder Scout; the  disused railway trails of Monsal,  Tissington and Longdendale; the dramatic gritstone ridge of The Roaches; local nature reserves; the Churnet  Valley canal and explorations of the Manifold Valley.

Double rooms cost from £170 per night (01335 324275; duncombearms.co.uk).

Derby and Derbyshire will move into Tier 3: hotels must close and the Government advises against visiting.

Strap on the skis

Cairngorms

The call of winter wild doesn’t get more irresistible than Braemar in the Cairngorms National Park. Walking and mountain bike trails lead into surrounding forests. There are 40 munros within easy reach. Glenshee has the largest ski and snowboard area in Scotland and Braemar is home to the highest 18-hole golf course in Britain.

The Fife Arms is a Victorian coaching inn turned luxury Highland retreat and costs £340 per room, per night (01306 264005; fishandpips.co.uk).

Under Scottish government guidance, you cannot travel to Scotland for non-essential reasons after the lockdown ends in England.

Pack the pooch

North Wales 

Welcoming both guests and their dogs, Ty Hir is a restored 18th-century longhouse on the remote Llyn Peninsula, near the western edge of Snowdonia National Park. The perfect base for exploring the countryside and the Llyn coastal path, this historic cottage is 100 yards from the disused railway track between Porthmadog and Caernarfon, now a scenic pathway, while surrounding Cwm Pennant is one of the most beautiful valleys in Wales.

A three-night break in December costs from £434 for three nights, based on up to four sharing. Dogs welcome at £25 per dog per stay (01348 837871; ­qualitycottages.co.uk).

Under Welsh government guidance, travelling in and out of Wales is not allowed before the Christmas relaxation period (December 23-27), unless you have a reasonable excuse.

Snuggle up close

Yorkshire Dales

A glamping expedition is even more romantic in winter, with sites equipped for toasty warmth amid the seasonal chill. Wood-burning stoves, king-size beds with duvets and blankets, and hearty log fires are all a staple of winter glamping. Little Seed Field, located in a peaceful corner of a working dairy farm, has three cabins with stunning views over the Nidderdale Valley on the eastern edge of the Yorkshire Dales in an Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty. Local wildlife includes birds of prey, deer, bats and hedgehogs.

A three-night stay for two at Little Seed Field in December costs £225 (­glampingly.co.uk).

North Yorkshire (where Little Seed Field is based) will enter Tier 2: no household mixing is allowed, but holidays can continue.

Lions and lights

Wiltshire

While some animals at Longleat Safari Park may be harder to spot, others including big cats are often more active in the winter months than in summer. A “Land of Light” event begins on Dec 3.

Families can combine the winter safari with a Land of Light all-in-one ticket, which includes the laser show at the Longhouse. Adults £35, Children £27.35 (01985 844328; longleat.co.uk).

Wiltshire will enter Tier 2: no household mixing is allowed, but holidays can continue.

Take a hike

Lake District

During winter, the UK’s most popular National Park has far fewer visitors, but with mountain tops blanketed in snow, there are plenty of opportunities for hiking. Ullswater is the location of a recently converted barn with 26 acres of private grounds, its own private boathouse and jetty, and spectacular views.

Sleeping eight in four double rooms, Lake View Barn costs from £4,200 for a week in December (01242 220006; thewowhousecompany.com).

Cumbria will enter Tier 2: no household mixing is allowed, but holidays can continue.

Heavenly and earthly delights

Forest of Dean

Based in the heart of the Forest of Dean and Wye Valley in Gloucestershire, the Tudor Farmhouse Hotel is the perfect base for stargazing and wildlife safaris with Jim Bell and Ed Drewitt. Jim will introduce you to stars, constellations and planets, while Ed leads groups on the hunt for bats, deer and wild boar.

A three-night Stargazing Staycation costs from £325pp including dinner on one night and a private stargazing experience with Jim (01594 833046; tudorfarmhousehotel.co.uk).

Gloucestershire will enter Tier 2: no household mixing is allowed, but holidays can continue.