Meet the Bridal Designers (and Retailers) Embracing the Importance of Size Inclusivity
It’s no secret that the fashion industry has struggled with size inclusivity in the past-but lately, more and more brands are reevaluating what it means to shop in every size.
When it comes to ready-to-wear, there have certainly been some notable strides made from major designers. Jason Wu partnered with Eloquii for a capsule collection that retails up to size 28; Christian Siriano has featured women of all sizes on his runways for years; and Laverne Cox and others strutted the runway at 11 Honoré's debut runway show, a size-inclusive retailer that joined forces with top designers to create collections up to size 20, and are working to push those boundaries even further, to size 24.
In bridal, plus-size options have been in demand for as long as women have been getting engaged (read: centuries, ages, forever); however, sizes over the standard 10-12 are only portrayed in the media when sequestered to spin-off reality shows like Say Yes to the Dress: Big Bliss, which ran on TLC in 2010 and 2011. Given the made-to-order model of the by-appointment bridal salon experience, one size (unfortunately) is intended to fit all. As a result, brides both larger and smaller than the store-purchased sample are required to envision what their gown "could" look like-if it were produced in their size.
The recent conversation around inclusivity and diversity in both fashion and in its marketing and branding has ushered in a new standard for marquee bridal houses. And with designers embracing and expanding their collections to suit more brides, there's never been a better time to shop for a wide range of styles (and sizes) in bridal.
For those designers on the forefront of the size-inclusive revolution, bridal and eveningwear shouldn't be reserved for a woman of a certain size. Christian Siriano, who creates eye-catching designs for a vast swathe of women, regardless of their body type, produces a bridal range that runs from size 0-26, a stark difference to what many designers have and are currently able to produce. In the past, a plus-size dress would come with an up-charge, due to the price of fabric and in scaling the gown's pattern to a larger size, but Siriano takes a very different approach.
“No matter what customer or custom client we're working with, we always take full body measurements no matter the [design] they are getting," he tells BAZAAR.com. "Making a piece for a plus client doesn't change the price for us. If a size 2 bride was getting the same piece as a size 26 bride, it should be the same price for both clients.” In fact, the price of a gown with the brand only increases should added handwork, like embroidery, be required, which would be something only the client would request.
While some bridal salons aren't yet equipped to offer a wide range of sizing options, the process of getting a dress made-to-order doesn't differ based on a woman's size at Christian Siriano. Gowns from the brand are available through the brand's store The Curated, and upon request at Kleinfeld Bridal; custom orders are available directly through the Christian Siriano team. When it comes to shopping for a dress in-store, Siriano urges brides to go in with an open mind, particularly if they are shopping over a size 18. "Have a fully open mind and try on anything and everything," he says. "Sometimes, what might be flattering could surprise you and you will never know without trying."
The options increase even more when a bride commits to collaborating with the designer on a custom piece. "We usually start with the type of silhouette they're looking for,” the Project Runway mentor and designer explains. “We show them different gowns that are similar to what they're looking for so they can visualize what their dream dress would look like. I'll also do a custom sketch of the gown that we've discussed so they have that to reference as well." When it comes to fabrications, the design and grading is crucial. The brand uses “mainly silk textured crepe, silk tulle, and silk faille [because they] translate easily into various sizes, but we aren't afraid to play around with fabrics if the bride wants a crazy sequin or embellished gown.”
Siriano is a great example of what we would like to see more of in the market, but he’s not the only one aiming to showcase options for a wide range of bridal body types. Online e-commerce website 11 Honoré entered the scene in 2017 with a mission of catering to consumers of all sizes, specifically 10-20+, with a high-end ready-to-wear assortment. Designers sold by 11 Honoré include Prabal Gurung, Christopher Kane, Altuzarra, Marc Jacobs, Brandon Maxwell, Jason Wu, and many more. With even more sizes in the works, 11 Honoré recently debuted their first-ever runway show during New York Fashion Week's Fall/Winter 2019 season.
“After nearly 2 decades of working in fashion, tech and communications, I wanted to create something that was on the right size of the fashion conversation,” states Patrick Herning, founder of 11 Honoré. "This was an idea that had never been done before, but felt very much in line of where fashion and our culture as a whole is headed." Herning says of the designers they have partnered with, "They realize they have an ally in us and each designer we carry is truly a partner [in creating pieces] properly scaled in size and maintaining the same integrity of the straight size version in their collection.” And when it comes to bridal, some of these designers sold on the site are creating custom styles for the 11 Honoré brand, many of which are ideal for weddings.
“Several styles from Brandon Maxwell, Prabal Gurung, and Juan Carlos Obando make excellent wedding and wedding event looks. We also have options for people attending weddings as well. The key is that we want, and are always working, to provide options and the opportunity to women who previously didn’t have this kind of variety before. Our amazing Client Services team works with several of the designers we carry to develop custom pieces [for our clients],” Herning says.
For the bride looking for a traditional wedding dress shopping experience, Mark Ingram, owner of Mark Ingram Atelier in Manhattan, stocks “a selection of larger size samples” for brides to try on in the salon. "Many of my designers offer gowns in a wide range of sizes," Ingram says. Having a selection of gowns in a bigger size range is important to Ingram and includes the likes of Peter Langner, Anne Barge, Valentini, Ines Di Santo and Romona Keveza, who "all [create] very well-made gowns with great structure and support,” he adds.
While the "largest sample we have to try on is a size 18, we will go up as large as any designer is willing to; beyond that, some designers can do muslin fittings and make any dress in any size." If you're on the hunt for a gown larger than a size 18, Ingram encourages brides to call in advance of their appointments and request specific samples, so that consultants can be prepared to help her find her wedding gown while offering the most seamless experience possible.
In addition to visiting a bridal salon, enlisting a custom piece, or shopping online, Amsale, known for classic silhouettes with a minimal flair, debuted a new offering on their runway for Spring 2020. Their goal? Allowing brides-to-be the opportunity to more accurately customize their gowns from size 0-24, without the price tag of a completely custom wedding dress. Should a bride require sizing upwards of 24, it's completely possible, albeit at a custom price point.
Amsale's new program, dubbed Amsale x You, is about bridging the gap between customization and retail, allowing for brides to create their own dresses with the help of the brand's design room virtually. With more and more fashion companies finding new ways to automate and provide customization options, including size variability and half-sizes to fill a gap for brides that aren’t one-size-fits-all, this method seems to cater to the bride who has a clear vision of what she's looking for, regardless of her size. “With Amsale x You, we virtually invite the bride into our design room, to peruse our library and empower her to design her own bespoke wedding dress,” said Sarah Swann, chief creative officer of Amsale New York. “We beta-tested the concept at our Madison Avenue Salon and the response has been overwhelmingly positive.”
As the fashion industry plays catch up and strives to create more and more avenues of inclusivity, those who are seeking to be game-changers in the space are seemingly five steps ahead, and it's giving brides all the more options in the luxury space. From bespoke customizations to digital platforms making size inclusivity a priority, a new energy for fashion-in bridal, and at every size-is on the horizon.
It appears women of all sizes are having more options when it comes to where and how they can shop for their wedding, and there is hope that as time goes on, more and more designers will be equipped to manage the demand for a wider size range. When asked to comment for this piece, a representative from Zac Posen-who has been known to design for women of all styles and sizes, including Princess Eugenie, the Duchess of York-informed us that while he isn't releasing a collection this season, it would be worth discussing this topic with him next season. With our fingers crossed and interests piqued, it seems that brides may be getting even more options for the aisle come 2020.
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