Maria McManus Pre-Fall 2023
For pre-fall, sustainable luxury designer Maria McManus was directly inspired by Michelangelo Antonioni’s drama “Red Desert,” or “Il Deserto Rosso,” for the film’s themes of “human alienation in a rapidly changing, modernizing world,” (issues the designer parallels to today) as well as for the director’s saturated splashes of color against neutral backdrops and landscapes.
“It’s set in the ‘60s in northern Italy and has a very beautiful industrial landscape — every shot is very neutral in the background but then Monica Vitti would come in in some exceptional outfit and there would be hot flashes of color. There’s one scene toward the end where an entire room is in shades of pale pink,” McManus said, which came through the collection in pops of monochromatic peony hues (a signature button-down, sheer crepe skirt or one-shoulder knit tank) amid her neutral-toned, refined assortment.
More from WWD
What to Watch: The EU to Get Tough on Textiles, Apparel and Footwear
What to Watch: Fashion and Philosophy -- Selfridges Promotes the Power of Positive Thinking
Known for her ethos of “buy fewer, better-made clothes and wear them often,” the designer provided a strong assortment of practical, fashionable wardrobing. McManus’ updated uniform dressing came in the form of GOTS-certified organic high-twist cotton carpenter pants with matching button-ups (as well as new chambray sets) while her plush proprietary recycled cashmere and organic cotton blend knits were given a carry-through-summer vibe in the form of an oversize cardigan, fine gauge dresses and netted layers.
“It’s all about the quality and luxury of the garments,” she said of the brand’s sustainable practices, production and materials, which could be seen through her season’s miniskirt, photographed inside-out to display its details.
“Our trenchcoat is a great example of how all the components come together. [The bodice lining] is cotton Cupro blend, the sleeve is Cupro, so it’s easy to put on, and [the base] is Japanese high-twist organic cotton, that wasn’t available to us until six months ago. These particular buttons are made from Urea, which is made from potato starch because most buttons are polyester, which I don’t want to use — you have billions floating in our oceans right now.”
Another standout within tailoring came in the form of an updated suit comprised of a white single-breasted blazer with top button closure (said to be made of Corzo nut) with a matching full-length skirt with trouser details.
Launch Gallery: Maria McManus Pre-Fall 2023
