Maison Margiela Puts Couture on the Installment Plan

Bridget Foley

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Lest anyone had wondered, the first half-day of Digital Couture Week has made very clear that revealing a collection digitally and doing so live and in-person are two very different experiences. One difference will come into high relief when John Galliano unveils his Maison Margiela Artisanal Coed Collection beginning Wednesday at 10 a.m. Paris time. Accent on “beginning,” because Galliano will show the collection in a manner that couldn’t be done live (at least no one has tried it): in installments. The initial teaser, scheduled during the house’s typical haute time slot, will be followed by two others, on July 11 and 15 and the culmination, on July 16, which a brand statement referred to as “a final revelation.”

“Re-emergence calls for the illumination of values and intents: an elucidated approach,” the statement said. (Loose translation — we think: “The the light bulb will go on, clarifying the brand’s values.”) “Invigorated by an air of transparency,” it continued, “creative director John Galliano will gradually uncover a new proposal for the house in a manifestation of clarity, interaction and inclusion.”

Galliano has already made bold inroads in terms of inclusive, gender nonspecific casting. And from concept through to execution and reveal, his work is typically masterful. The prospect of “a new proposal” from him intrigues.

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