Lowlights for Gray Hair May Be the Secret to Fuss-Free Beauty
It’s a truth universally acknowledged that gray hair can be chic, glamorous, and oh-so-flattering. And when it comes to adding depth and playfulness to gray hair, there’s no better technique than lowlights (a good shampoo helps too). Here's everything you need to know about this natural coloring style.
First, can lowlights actually cover gray hair?
Yes! Lowlights, which, unlike highlights are actually a few shades darker than your hair, bring out the most natural look versus using brighter traditional highlights, says Michael Canalé, Jennifer Aniston’s longtime colorist and creator of hair care line Canalé.
"Highlights can sometimes turn gray hair brassy or even yellow,” he explains.
To get the most natural shade, he starts with a base color that’s similar to your former virgin hair, focusing on the roots and around the face, following by lowlights all over.
Okay, but what type of upkeep are we talking about?
“Lowlights are ideal for people that don’t want to make a trip to the salon monthly,” says Canalé. He explains that by bringing natural base tones back, you can move out the gray and create a more natural, long-lasting look, adding “the key with gray is to use great products to maintain the color in between salon visits and to fight the brassy.” Look for products with blue gloss, which keep lowlights shiny, he says.
Is balayage good for covering gray hair?
It can, but Canalé cautions that balayage is more high-maintenance than lowlights. “Covering gray is obviously a multi-step process, so introducing a technique like balayage just translates to more frequent visits to the salon, and a less natural look.” Additionally, because the technique involves painting on color, it’s easy to overdo.
Sold! What's the best color to cover gray hair?
Canalé likes working with each person’s individual coloring and doesn’t believe in one-size-fits all. “My mantra is to enhance the natural skin tone of a woman, not fight with it! If you have a cool undertone to your complexion, I go with cooler browns and blondes for your color to avoid making your skin tone appear ruddy; if you have a warmer undertone I’ll warm up the color to avoid a washed-out look. Don’t fight what you've been given: work with it and make it more beautiful. That’s the look that will last.”
Go for a semi-permanent dye.
Gray hair is already coarse, so it’s important to avoid making the hair shaft open up. Canalé recommends covering gray with semi-permanent, non-ammonia products, to avoid drying hair that’s already dry. “Semi-permanent products also keep the hair in better condition without stripping away the natural shine and texture,” he explains.
And remember, gray hair with lowlights needs a special shampoo.
Aim for the mildest shampoo, as any product with detergent or artificial additives or preservatives will strip out the lowlights fast and create a brassy or yellow tone, as well as damage the natural structure of the hair. "Also, use a mild conditioner and finish with a tonal gloss to maintain the color and salon effect for as long as possible!” Canalé says.
Do different shades of gray need different lowlights?
Whether you’re a blonde gone gray or a brunette, an equally important factor in choosing lowlights is skin tone. “From that, I can see what the color once was in every woman, and I start there,” explains Canalé, who tries to bring back clients’ natural look as much as possible.
“If the original color was blonder, I go back to the darkest color on the head and start there; I do the same with brunettes. That technique will give you the most natural look and more longevity in between visits as hair grows out."
And don't forget about haircuts.
Think it’s only about the color? Think again. “Haircuts are really, really important,” Canalé explains. “Find a great stylist to make your awesome color look even better, and don’t be afraid to be bold, either. I’m here to say that a cool chin-length blunt cut with a straight blow-out can take years off, and so can a more natural shoulder-length flip. Don’t be afraid to be you!”
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