Louis Gabriel Nouchi Men’s Spring 2021
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Camus has seen a powerful resurgence in popularity lately — his message about the randomness of suffering resonated especially well during the pandemic lockdown. But here, his influence spilled over into fashion. Seizing on “The Stranger” — that great monument in French literature — Louis Gabriel Nouchi drew on both the story and the author’s own vestimentary preferences for his spring collection.
The designer drew up a sensual lineup of loose silhouettes — tailoring and knits — updating classics by stretching them out. The trench — a Camus favorite — was roomy, the tips of the lapel extended to the shoulders. Knits, a brand signature, had snug fits, with the occasional detached lining — another LGN trademark, and carried inspiration from military undergarments, the weave meant to protect soldiers from mosquitoes. Focusing on French materials, there was a profusion of linen, a good heat regulator that also consumes less water than cotton, Nouchi said.
Nouchi also offered military jackets and pinstripes — other Camus favorites — working them in silky materials, reconfiguring them for contemporary times.
The clothing was shown in a film produced by Keffer, worn by actors from the Comédie Française, who read passages from the book — Nouchi had developed a habit of posting lines from literature on Instagram during the lockdown period.
The book provided the color palette — black as the character mourns the death of his mother, blue for the sea and orange for the murder on the beach.
The latter was bright, meant to evoke the sun, and worked into flat trousers and cleanly cut suit jackets.
“Heat is a decisive factor in the book,” as Nouchi noted.
A collaboration with artist Edouard Taufenbach turned up prints made from collages of photos of Algiers, which were applied to collared shirts and shorts, patched onto another fabric, for a ripped paper effect.
In other news, the brand is opening its first store on Rue Oberkampf in Paris in September.
Launch Gallery: Louis Gabriel Nouchi Men's Spring 2021
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