What Your Lipstick’s Missing Is Brown Liner
Swiping on a few coats of your favorite lip color before heading out the door is par for the course for many of us. But what if I told you there’s a step you may be missing that could kick things up a notch?
You’ve likely seen celebs (like Cardi B and Victoria Monét) or influencers (such as Afnan Dano and Shayla Mitchell) with gorgeous, multidimensional color on their lips. And if you’re wondering how they’re able to achieve it, well, the answer is simple: brown lip liner.
“The history of a perfect brown lip liner goes back to a time when not all cosmetics were suited for all skin tones — but a great solid brown lip liner was always tried and true,” says Chanel makeup artist Tasha Reiko Brown. “On lighter tones, it creates definition around the mouth by using it as a blurred drop shadow. On deeper skin tones, the same is true, but you can also use it to balance uneven lip color by filling in your entire lip.” In short, it’s a versatile product that works for everyone.
I started using brown lip liner well over a decade ago — almost by mistake. I was at a beauty supply outlet store in San Francisco, picking up a few random products. As I was checking out, the cashier offered me a free sample of a deep brown liner. Once I got back to my friend’s place, I was eager to give it a try.
While I initially thought I’d use it with neutral lipsticks, my signature lip color has always been red, so I paired the two. The result, to my surprise, was a sultry, ombré finish — and from that moment on, I was hooked. Since then, I’ve worn brown lip liner with a rainbow of different lipstick shades and I’ve yet to find a color that it doesn’t complement.
Ahead, makeup artists share how to find the right shade of brown liner and the best way to apply it, plus seven of my favorite product combinations to get the look.
How to Find the Right Brown Lip Liner
“A great place to begin is by finding a shade that matches your lip color, but is a few shades deeper,” says Donni Davy, Euphoria's head makeup artist. “Depending on your complexion, these shades [of brown] might range from a medium pink-peach to mauve-taupe, or espresso-black.”
Some great options: Rare Beauty’s Kind Words Lipliner in Talented for a peachy brown, Bobbi Brown’s Lip Pencil in Ballet Pink for a mauve brown, and LYS Beauty’s Speak Love Lip Liner Pencil in Devoted for a deep espresso-brown.
However, don’t get too hung up on trying to find a “correct combo.” Brown is not only a universal shade, but is also ultra-forgiving. “You don’t have to match the tone of your liner to your overall lip color, lipstick, or gloss,” says Davy.
You can even layer two or more colors to create a unique look. For example, mixing Chanel’s Longwear Lip Pencil in Brun Carmin and Prune Noire gives me the perfect red-brown that I love pairing with a rose-colored lipstick. But on other days, I may also try it with a chocolate brown liner if I want a deeper finish.
How to Apply Brown Lip Liner
Pairing a brown liner with a vibrant coral or electric Barbie pink lipstick may seem outrageous, but the result proves otherwise. Here’s how to do it.
Step 1: Reach for a dull lip pencil.
Both Brown and Davy agree that when it comes to lip pencils, the duller, the better. If a lip liner is too sharp, the finish may look harsh — or the line may be too fine. “I love soft diffusion on the edges of lips,” Brown shares. “When I’m using just a brown lip liner as sort of a drop shadow that will sit behind the lip color, [a diffused line] helps make lips authentically look fuller.”
Step 2: Line the lips.
Hold off on applying lip balm. “For staying power, I like to line on drier lips,” Brown says. “If lips are too hydrated or have too much slip to them, it prevents the waxy liner from creating a bond with the lip. It will sort of float on top of the emollient lip balm.”
Follow along the perimeter of your lips. “Then, on the sides of the lip, top, and bottom, sketch the liner inwards towards the [center] of your lips,” Brown shares. This helps to blend the color versus creating a distinct border.
Step 3 (optional): Diffuse the color.
If you used a liner that was too sharp, or applied too much product, grab a small, angled makeup brush, like MAC’s 263 Synthetic Angle Brush, to soften the liner color towards the center of the lips. This is a great tip to follow when pairing a brown liner with a sheer gloss to achieve a blended finish. “I think it looks more artful, glam, and a tiny bit lived in,” says Davy. “Your lips will look luscious and full.”
You can also follow this step to ensure a smooth base before applying your lip color over top. “When I’m doing a bold lip look, this helps get a [consistent] color across the entire lip,” says Brown.
Step 4: Layer a lipstick or gloss on top.
“I apply the lipstick or gloss to the center of the lips and blend outward,” says Brown. “This ensures that all the beautiful shadowing I’ve done with the brown lip liner doesn’t soften too much.” And voilà — you’ll be left with a gorgeous ombré finish.
For a little extra oomph, “pop a lighter shade in the center of your lips for a little more dimension,” says Davy.
Brown Lip Liner Inspiration
I’ve never been a fan of flat color. An ultra-defined cupid’s bow plus an alluring ombre finish is my go-to look no matter which shade — including reds, pinks, corals, and neutrals — I’m wearing. Here, you can see why brown lip liner has become an essential product in my makeup bag.
Matte Pink Lips
Get the look:
Half Magic Sculptitude 2-in-1 Liner in I'll Pray For You
$16.00, Ulta Beauty
Madame Matte Liquid Lipstick in Bonjour
$20.00, Labomme
Glossy Brown Lips
Get the look:
Dibs No Pressure Lip Definer in Dark
$16.00, Dibs Beauty
Dior Addict Lip Maximizer in Shimmery Nude
$40.00, Nordstrom
Matte Chocolate Brown Lips
Get the look:
CTZN Cosmetics Lipstroke in Quatorze
$18.00, Nordstrom
Bossy Cosmetics Liquid Lipstick in Determined
$25.00, Amazon
Glossy Nuetral-Pink Lips
Get the look:
Ctzn Cosmetics Lipstroke in Sizdah
$18.00, Nordstrom
Pat McGrath Labs Lust Lip Gloss in Peach Perversion
$29.00, Sephora
Bold Satin Red Lips
Get the look:
Dibs No Pressure Lip Definer in Dark
$16.00, Dibs Beauty
Violette_FR Petal Bouche Matte in Amour Fou
$28.00, Violette_FR
Shiny Rose Lips
Get the look:
Chanel Longwear Lip Pencil in Prune Noire
$35.00,
Charlotte Tilbury Airbrush Flawless Matte Lip Blur Liquid Lipstick in Flame Blur
$35.00, Nordstrom
Vinyl Coral Lips
Get the look:
Half Magic Sculptitude 2-in-1 Liner in I'll Pray For You
$16.00, Ulta Beauty
Yensa Super 8 Vibrant Silk Lipstick in Fire
$30.00, Amazon
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Now watch Kelsey Merritt's makeup routine.
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Originally Appeared on Allure