Kobi Halperin RTW Spring 2020
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Kobi Halperin built his spring collection on three major tenets: historical textiles, color and emotion. The designer is no stranger to culturally ambiguous prints derived from seasonal inspiration trips. It’s actually baffling, in the best sense, how varied prints and embroidery techniques fit into the same sophisticated Halperin world from season to season.
For spring, the designer was taken with Jaipur, India, for its history of creating rich textiles and embroideries for the maharajas. He brought back antique textiles and fabric swatches to play while print and patternmaking, resulting in a mash-up of ideas that managed to stay clear of referential territory. For example, he cut a lot of the clothes in forward-thinking silhouettes, like the elongated shawl on blouses acting as a modern take on the sari, or a great updated trenchcoat with a luxe hand touch, lined with intricate embroidery.
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His clothes are meant to fold into your everyday wardrobe, so highlights from spring were updated classics grounded in reality. A sleek suit was cut in a subtle orange tie-dye, a pretty yellow daydress took its subtle jacquard pattern from Jaipur’s architecture, and wide-leg pants towed the line between skirt and trouser. The most pleasant surprise came from subtle sleeve treatments, where drapes across feminine silhouettes created elegant curves and shapes.
“When you are sharing this passion and sharing this story, there are people who really want it,” Halperin said during a walk-through. “They think about clothes as more than just pieces of garments. They want to hear the story. How do you express your point of view without being there. You want them to feel it.”
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