Kendall’s Turn for Choo, Matty Bovan’s Big Knit, CDLP’s Women’s Line
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KENDALL AND JIMMY: Jimmy Choo is putting their best foot forward.
The luxury accessories brand has just unveiled Kendall Jenner as the campaign face for its “Time to Dare” series for fall 2022.
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Jenner was photographed by Carlijn Jacobs in Los Angeles by a villa backdrop with a pool and palm trees. Jacobs is known for working with the likes of M le Monde, Chanel, Berluti and more.
Jenner wears the brand’s quilted leather shoulder bag, Varenne Avenue Quad and knee-high boots, the Dreece and Blake, in shades of candy pink, black and gold.
This is Jenner’s debut campaign with the brand; previously she has been the face of Calvin Klein, Stuart Weitzman, Longchamp and more.
In 2021, the model launched her tequila company named, 818, marking her first solo business venture.
“For almost four years, I’ve been on a journey to create the best tasting tequila,” Jenner revealed to her 255 million followers on Instagram.
“After dozens of blind taste tests, trips to our distillery, entering into world tasting competitions anonymously and WINNING (🥳), 3.5 years later I think we’ve done it! This is all we’ve been drinking for the last year and I can’t wait for everyone else to get their hands on this to enjoy it as much as we do!”
Leading up the business side of the brand, Jenner has hired Mike Novy as president and chief operating officer of 818. He previously held positions at Tequila Casa Dragones and Constellation Brands, where he worked for 13 years in sales.
Jenner will return for the second series of her family reality TV show on Hulu, “The Kardashians,” on Sept. 22. — HIKMAT MOHAMMED
BIG SWEATER: Fashion designer Matty Bovan, who took home last year’s Woolmark Prize, is the latest artist to take over the Now Gallery in London’s Greenwich Peninsula to present his art installation Ribbons.
From Nov. 30 to Feb. 20, 2023, the gallery space will be filled with a ceiling-height hand-knitted sweater that invites visitors to explore the colorful tent-like structure and watch the experimental film “Ribbons,” which documented how Bovan created the giant piece of knitwear.
The space will also have a special soundscape and be filled with scents of geranium and lavender.
The commission aims to “reexamine their views on fashion, art, textiles and craft while encouraging them to dream and get lost in the weird and wonderful world of Matty Bovan,” the gallery said.
Bovan said “Ribbons” explores “a more intimate and special place” in his world.
“My grandma taught me to knit at age 11, and I have never looked back. Passing down skills and exciting people about craft is a central focus of my work,” the designer from Yorkshire said.
“Ribbon is usually used as a trim or flourish in fashion and craft; here I am taking the idea of a small-scale, somewhat apologetic trim, and blowing it up with full brute force of energy and hardcore craft. There will also be a chance for people to get involved with interactive show elements, which illustrate the importance — and fun — of crafting and making things yourself,” he added.
Jemima Burrill, curator at Now Gallery, recalled how Bovan excited her when she was watching his online presentation during the lockdown.
“The film he created was nothing like anything I had seen before. It struck a nerve and made fashion exciting again even at the bleakest hour. He had to be the next Now Fashion Commission, whatever he came up with would rupture our space and make us think about clothes, life and who we are — in a different way,” she said.
Previous artists who have shown at Now Gallery include Yinka Ilori, Manjit Thapp, Joy Yamusangie, Nicholas Daley, Mowalola, Phoebe English, Molly Goddard and Lydia Chan, who last year transformed the curved facade of the art space into a futuristic fantasy world through an array of vivid colors, augmented reality interactive component and alien-shaped creatures. — TIANWEI ZHANG
HER TURN: “Transcending lingerie” is how Ingrid Guttormsen described her approach to CDLP’s first women’s products.
The Stockholm-based maker of “sustainable luxury essentials” for men is launching its first women’s essentials collection on Sept. 21, an exclusive with Net-a-porter, in addition to its own e-store.
“The line was developed with both a consideration of how the product feels on skin, but also how it compliments the outer layers,” explained Guttormsen, design director at CDLP. “While designs are functional, there are delicate details, which creates an interesting connection between under and outerwear. Structures are strong; materials are soft.”
A graduate of Central Saint Martins, Guttormsen has designed for Alexander Wang, MM6 Maison Margiela and Jeremy Scott earlier in her career.
The succinct debut collection spans thongs, briefs, bralettes, a T-shirt and tank top in either black or white. The main fabric employed is Tencel, made from renewable wood sources and prized for its softness, breathability and moisture-wicking capabilities.
Details include herringbone trims, tonal debossed logos, adjustable two-way straps and custom silver hardware.
Founded in 2016 by film director and photographer Christian Larson and entrepreneur Andreas Palm, CDLP has so far specialized in men’s underwear, T-shirts, socks, as well as items to wear by the pool, at home and for sports.
Investors in the brand, which is an abbreviation of the phrase “un cadeau de la providence,” include Matchesfashion founder Tom Chapman and Swedish American entrepreneur Cristina Stenbeck.
“We started to see a women’s customer emerge naturally,” Larsen said, explaining that its fits and silhouettes are “universal. Therefore, to go backward and develop underwear essentials for this customer group was an organic yet thoughtful progression.” — MILES SOCHA
CAPTURING THE MOMENT: Yohji Yamamoto is marking the 50th anniversary of his first brand Y’s by revisiting fashion moments by British photographer Max Vadukul, who has been shooting for the Japanese designer since the ’80s.
Eight images, some assembled into collages, will appear on a capsule collection of clothing and accessories, including T-shirts, to be released in November. However, four of them will be pre-sold exclusively at the Y’s store on Ometesando in Tokyo from Friday.
The images derive from six collections done between 1999 and 2002, and Vadukul and creative director Claudio Dell’Olio reworked them so they would look cool on clothes.
Yamamoto’s art director Marc Ascoli conscripted Vadukul even before he had an agent, with his first assignment capturing Y’s fall 1984 collection out on the streets of New York. Prized for his reportage and portraits, Vadukul would later become a staff photographer at The New Yorker. He has also shot for a host of fashion and culture magazines, including French Vogue, Italian Vogue, Interview, Rolling Stone, Esquire, Egoiste and Town & Country.
According to Y’s, the exercise proves the timelessness and everyday nature of Yamamoto’s designs: “Spontaneous images of people’s lives, where Y’s clothes just exist alongside them.” — M.S.
NEW JOB: R13, the New York-based denim firm, has named Lily Gunn Townsend president.
Most recently, she was with Michael Kors as vice president of Collection ready-to-wear, accessories and footwear. She was at Kors for 17 years.
At R13, she reports to Chris Leba, chief executive officer and creative director.
Gunn will oversee global wholesale, retail, manufacturing, and product development for R13 and Denimist.
“I am so excited to work with a visionary like Chris and support the R13 and Denimist teams in this time of evolution and global growth,” said Gunn.
Leba founded R13 in New York City in 2009 with a premium denim focus, and the brand has since expanded to elevated ready-to-wear and footwear. The well-established brand has become a staple to the ever-growing grunge movement with its edgy take on denim and sportswear.
“Our design formula has always been this yin and yang — of familiarness and the idea of saying, ‘I know what that is, but I’ve never seen it like that before’ — that’s my personal language,” Leba told WWD in June while showing resort. — LISA LOCKWOOD
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