Kate Spade New York creative director Nicola Glass is putting a pause on runway shows for now, preferring to show the collection via a series of videos and images using brand muses. It’s not a totally new direction, and fall sees her add nuance to some narratives she has been working on for some time. For one thing, she continues to cast a diverse mix of women, like Giannie Couji, Naomi Chin Wing and Julia Fox. The videos contain a good dose of behind-the-scenes footage, which helps put Glass’ collection into context.
The creative director said her starting point was an enchanted forest, a theme that could be seen as a building block of previous collections, which saw her inspired by such things as a city safari or a garden party. It makes sense to only slightly move the needle of the theme, as her customer isn’t looking for a massive swing on the trend pendulum.
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The narrative played out in a vine-and-flower-print shirtdress, colorful tweed suiting and crafty knit dresses. Glass used bright colors, like you’d find in a walk through a forest, throughout. Glass does well balancing the pragmatic preppy vibe with touches of girlie charm, the kind of energy the Kate Spade label was built on.
Accessories saw a mix of new bags, some also quite crafty with knit floral appliqués. As for jewelry, a category growing at the brand, there were rings that looked like coquettish magic mushroom and flower pins with petals shaped like spades made of colorful stones.
Launch Gallery: Kate Spade New York RTW Fall 2020