For fall, Bill Gaytten wove touches of Asia into a sleek and fanciful offering for a cosmopolitan crowd.
“It’s a little bit Asian, but not literally so,” said Gaytten, pointing to details like modified versions of cheongsam fastenings. From the past, he borrowed mainstays like the snug, quilted coat relied on for generations and reinterpreted it for modern city life — in silky orange with flower-print panels. Suit jackets were double-breasted, with blanket stitching to soften the look.
Noble fabrics included a tapestry jacquard in bronze and black, which he used to make a series of ultrachic overcoats, jackets and even cargo pants. For woman’s pre-fall, he embellished one jacket with a row of long, black tassels. Kimono references in pieces for women came in multiple forms, with a thick, camel cashmere coat serving as lush outerwear, while a flowing, black jacket in a turquoise, pale pink and orange flower motif offered a sensual alternative to the tuxedo blazer.
Inspiration came from the craftsmanship of the Tibetan plateau as well as Anna May Wong, the glamorous Hollywood actress who recast the image of Chinese Americans in the Thirties.
Gaytten lifted a chunky, knit cardigan in black and white, with pockets the perfect size to bury hands into.
“I think it’s quite a graphic and textured collection,” he said.
And, one would add, an elegant celebration of diversity.
Launch Gallery: John Galliano Men's Fall 2018