“It’s about beauty. I have never been edgy and cool. I don’t know how to do it. I want to do my best version of beauty,” said Jason Wu backstage at his spring show, held at Pier 17 in a postindustrial venue with large windows offering a spectacular view of the Brooklyn Bridge.
Is there anything wrong with wanting to create beautiful clothes? Not at all. Especially when a designer like Wu succeeds in interpreting what is classic, sophisticated and feminine with a fresh, lively touch.
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This season, Wu wanted to give a different twist to the idea of beauty he normally conveys with his clothes, which usually have a polished, “perfect” look. So he played with hand-washed fabrics, textures, sun-bleached effects, raw cut edges and intentionally unfinished details to give his elegant creations a lived-in, poetic and intriguing vibe.
The mood of slightly decadent romanticism was inspired by the images of fragile, dried flowers of Wu’s friend, photographer Maxime Poiblanc.
His nocturnal-looking flowers were printed on a washed-silk pencil skirt worn with a coordinated bralette and a lightweight trenchcoat, as well as with an exquisitely draped dress punctuated by tiny crystal embroideries.
Leather was also treated to obtain an imperfect, wrinkled effect, while a group of frocks with sensual slits proved the brand’s high-end craftsmanship with different layers of washed silk stitched together for a 3-D petal effect.
While his pretty collection mostly featured intentional imperfection, Wu couldn’t resist the call of the sirens asking for some of his signature timeless fashion masterpieces, and he closed the show with three ethereal tulle gowns embellished with tiny ruffles. A classic idea of beauty? A great one.
Launch Gallery: Jason Wu Collection RTW Spring 2020