Jane Birkin: Why did Hermes name a bag after the actress?

Legendary English-French actress and singer Jane Birkin died on Sunday, aged 76.

While born in London, Birkin relocated to France in the 1970s after finding fame by singing songs in French.

Described as a "French icon" by French president Emmanuel Macron, Birkin’s legacy also extends to fashion: she inspired the Hermès Birkin bag.

Read more: Remembering Jane Birkin, one of our biggest style icons – Red Magazine, 6-min read

Since it was introduced in 1984, the Birkin bag has become a status symbol of the wealthy, with the cheapest version of the bag costing around £7,000.

What is a Hermès Birkin bag and why are they so expensive?

If you have even the slightest pulse on the fashion world, it’s likely you’ve heard of the Birkin bag.

The distinctive design of the tote bag sees a square shape, short handles and buckle fastenings. It comes in various colours and materials - but availability is low which means it's always in high demand.

In fact, recent data analysis from Lyst found that demand for Hermès bags as a whole has risen by 430% since 2020, and luxury resale companies like Vestiaire Collective estimate that the bag retains around 130% of its original value, making it a great investment piece.

Each bag is hand-sewn by just one maker, and can take up to 18 hours to make. The artisans who make the bag also reportedly have to train for up to five years before they can make a Birkin as it requires traditional techniques and consistency.

Read more: In Pictures: London-born Jane Birkin crossed the Channel to become a world star - PA Media, 2-min read

The high demand and low availability, coupled with the hours of workmanship could be why Birkin bags are also among some of the most expensive bags in the world.

In 2018, a Himalaya Niloticus Crocodile Birkin 35 with 18-karat white gold and diamond features sold for a jaw-dropping £236,750. In 2019, Christies London sold a Birkin bag for £162,500.

Jane Birkin’s role in the Birkin bag

So, how did the Birkin bag come to be? In 1984, Jane Birkin was sitting next to the CEO of Hermès at the time, Jean-Louis Dumas, on a flight from Paris to London.

As Birkin placed her travel bag into the overhead compartment, the contents fell out of it and Dumas reportedly said to Birkin that she should have a bag with pockets, to which she replied: “The day Hermès makes one with pockets I will have that.”

Read more: Jane Birkin: An icon's life in pictures - Euronews, 3-min read

Dumas said that he was Hermès and that he would put pockets in a bag for her. Birkin sketched out the kind of bag she was looking for, similar to the already-established Hermès Kelly bag, and said she would give her name to the bag in return for an early model of it. The rest is sartorial history.

Buying a Birkin bag

With so many celebrities like Victoria Beckham and the Kardashians owning Birkin bags (yes, sometimes multiple) it should be easy for anyone to get their hands on one, right? Not quite.

Because there are a limited number of new Birkin bags made, not every Hermès boutique will have them in store. The best way to see if a boutique has the bag you want is to call them up and speak with the team who can assist you in finding one.

While there used to be a waitlist for Birkin bags, this was scrapped because demand got too high. Now, the easiest way to get a Birkin bag is to buy one second hand, through luxury resellers like Vestiaire Collective (where a brown leather Birkin bag is currently listed for £14,299) or Farfetch (which is selling a powder blue Birkin for £22,883).

The price can vary depending on the materials used, the colour, and the size, so whatever you do, make sure you do some thorough research before making any Birkin purchase.

Watch: Jane Birkin dies aged 76