Never one to miss an Instagram opportunity, even during a pandemic, Simon Porte Jacquemus staged his Spring 2021 collection for his namesake label in a field of gold. One of the first designers to put on a runway show during COVID, models walked through barley fields in Vexin Regional National Park, which is located an hour north west of Paris. 100 guests, seated at safe distances from one another, watched 55 models walk a 600 meter-long runway that cut sinuously through the shafts of wheat.
Titled L'Amour, the show was visual poetry that recalled the mesmerizing scenes in Terrence Malick’s Days of Heaven and Andrew Wyeth’s Christina's World. It was seductive, a bit melancholy, and incredibly romantic, which is evidently what Jacquemus and team were feeling while creating the line.
"Not long after my team was separated from each other, we were all in our homes feeling the desire to work, and a new vision of the collection emerged,” he said in a statement. “We became a human chain, every step of the creative process executed with love."
There were coquettish slip dresses in cream, black, and yellow, exaggerated shirts that were cropped or featured plunging necklines, and pencil skirts with high slits. Several references were made to provincial life, including gingham tops and frocks with appliqués that mirrored barley leaves and spikes. And not to be outdone were the accessories: spiral earrings in the vein of Joan Miro, miniature wicker bags, a carryall that held a single plate, necklaces and bracelets made of soap (yes, you read that correctly), and strappy heels.
The entire presentation was a touch surreal—partly owing to the sultry but wearable collection modeled against a dreamy out-of-a-painting backdrop, and partly because the "old normal" feels so distant from our new normal of quarantine and uncertainty. Fashion has always been about creating a bit of fantasy, and Jacquemus knows how to deliver.
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