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Technically, it was a three-way collaboration with Nike.
As usual, the images from Jacquemus's latest runway show have left me feeling a little salty that I wasn't there in person — but probably not as salty as those who did attend, as the the Fall 2022 collection was shown amid the giant mounds of salt in Camargue, France.
It was another picturesque runway backdrop done in partnership with frequent Jacquemus collaborator, Mother Nature, following up recent scenic, off-the-beaten-path locales including a blooming lavender field in the South of France, a wheat field in the countryside outside Paris and, most recently, beachside in Hawai'i. Though, in terms of the color palette, the coed collection, titled "Le Papier," couldn't have veered further away from the vivid, sunny, tropical hues of that last outing.
"The last collections were very Pop," designer Simon Porte Jacquemus wrote in a recent Instagram story, "I now go back to something more poetic."
Most garments are as white and flat as the material after which the collection is named, with a few other neutrals and pale blues and greens mixed in. But despite lacking in color, there's no deficiency in visual interest, striking beauty or Instagram-friendly imagery. And the collection itself is unmistakably Jacquemus, with a sort of "Mad Max"-bridal twist.
In this desert-like setting, many looks suggest a post-apocalyptic battle against the elements, thanks to gorp-y vests, anoraks, cargo pockets, utility belts, backpacks and mesh head coverings alongside organic-looking fabrics with frayed edges. These utilitarian garments are juxtaposed against more decorative details like large poofs of tulle, opera-length gloves, trains of fabric and, of course all that white. And are those mesh head coverings actually bridal veils?
The collection also includes plenty of sexy Jacquemus signatures: bra tops, bare midriffs (with and without "floss"), diagonal cardigans and diaphanous dresses and skirts that look at once beautifully constructed and as if the wind could blow them away at any moment.
Mother nature wasn't this show's only collaborator, by the way: It also included a few pieces from Jacquemus' highly anticipated collaboration with Nike, which drops Tuesday on the brand's website. With all the buzz around that — and a front row full of young, social media-savvy hotties like Simone Ashley, Bretman Rock, Jorja Smith, Cindy Kimberly and Amelia Gray Hamlin — this collection and its campaign images will surely be another digital success.
See every look from Jacquemus "Le Papier" in the gallery below.
View the 61 images of this gallery on the original article