Italian Men’s Tailoring Evolving With the Trends
MILAN — Men’s tailoring remains a staple in Italy but brands have been evolving their designs for it with newfound ease and confidence.
Here’s a selection of the latest offerings from some of the key references in the segment during Milan Men’s Fashion Week.
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Design director Norbert Stumpfl never forgets Brioni’s Roman roots and he turned to the Italian capital’s nonchalance for inspiration, reflected also in the choice of the location — a serene rose garden in the San Simpliciano cloister, secluded from the hustle and bustle of Milan.
Stumpfl is a master at delivering beautiful and sophisticated unconstructed suits — although he always pays tribute to the artisans at Brioni’s Penne plant.
He worked with the best and softest linens and silks or Super 210 wool, which is “softer than cashmere,” he said. His research into fabrics included a special linen treated with aloe vera, and a baby cashmere and vicuna woven jacket was a standout. The color palette was equally remarkable, ranging from powder rose to sage. A seersucker suit was worn with a matching shirt, and no necktie.
Eveningwear surprised with a precious silk jacquard made on ancient looms by Setificio Leuciano, purveyor to the Reggia di Caserta, tailored into unique and stunning jackets.
The same sartorial flavor was seen in the women’s capsule collection, once again proposed by Stumpfl.
courtesy of Brioni
Kiton presented outside its headquarters for the first time at the Palazzo del Senato, with a striking installation within a circular, bright red structure.
“We wanted to evolve and surprise,” said CEO Antonio De Matteis simply, and to this end, Kiton also presented several womenswear looks. “It’s a segment that is growing and it’s only fair it should have more visibility,” he said. The suit is back, but revisited with much more ease and comfort, said De Matteis. Case in point, a cherry red Bermuda pantsuit, which, he contended, can be worn to the office, too.
Shirts evolved to become overshirts, lightweight jackets or blousons, entirely deconstructed. Similarly, outerwear was simplified and made of materials previously intended only for shirts such as Sea Island cotton or washed silk. Pants had pleats and were wider at the hips and narrow at the bottom. Event dressing is back, and a stunner was a sartorial jacket in jacquard cashmere in a mother-of-pearl version.
Courtesy of Kiton
Massimo Alba‘s spring collection could be titled “the completely bearable lightness of clothing,” given the summery fabrics like cotton voile and linen, and his featherweight tailoring.
“I like something between a pajama and a jacket,” the designer said as he guided a journalist through the racks, the clothes rich in color and delectable to the touch.
“All colors are friends,” he said, clutching items in violet, pink and a burnt orange in one hand to show the harmony. The designer reprised some looks in the “baby corduroy” sported by Daniel Craig in the latest Bond film, “No Time to Die.”
Courtesy of Massimo Alba
In the San Barnaba cloisters, Canali recreated a Ligurian scene to convey the brand’s message, presenting a relaxed collection, surrounded by carts offering freshly squeezed lemonades, savory ice cream and souvenir postcards. Canali for spring introduced a new sartorial concept: “smartorial” casual, but also sophisticated, connecting formal and leisurewear. “We are evolving our formalwear and this collection is a key step in our interpretation of sartorial, without overturning our brand to maintain our credibility,” said Stefano Canali, who leads the family brand. “But we cannot stand still, and we must adapt to the needs of the market.”
Tangerine- and aquamarine-colored open-neck shirts were paired with short suits. Outerwear focused on the overshirt and Shacket — a Canali staple — in suede, linen and denim paired with chinos, trousers or jeans. They are produced in technical fabrics with a matte finish. Knitwear took its cue from the fishing shores, with sailor-striped two-tone boatneck and woven crew-neck sweaters in luxurious cotton and silk blends. Polo shirts came in breathable crisp cotton with leather details. It made for a refreshing summery collection.
Courtesy of Canali
Boglioli‘s spring collection was in the sign of versatility, as the brand’s classic sartorial style evolved into essential, hybrid pieces that can be personally interpreted based on the use. The label’s signature K-Jacket, deconstructed and garment dyed, has now become entirely sustainable made in recycled cashmere. Parkas, field jackets and bombers were presented in light flannel or Shetland wool, all water-repellent. The blazer was revisited as an outerwear piece. The collection had a nonchalant ease in sync with the trend in Milan.
courtesy of Boglioli
A casual take on tailoring took central stage at Pal Zileri, which presented the collection in its new showroom in central Milan. The brand introduced the Tiepolo line, hinged on a ‘90s-inspired blazer jacket and pants with double pleats, defining a relaxed silhouette. Polos and bowling shirts in eccentric prints completed the look, while other casual-chic and smart separates for men’s wardrobe included field jackets, shirts in soft leather and knitwear in blends of cotton and silk.
Courtesy of Pal Zileri
Isaia’s collection was infused with a retro vibe that was at the crossroads between American preppy style and Neapolitan summer holiday in the ‘50s. Sartorial staples — often rendered in pinstriped and checkered motifs — were juxtaposed with V-neck knits and Ivy League-inspired cardigans, while the tricot polo in neutral shades made for the ultimate must-have item for the spring 2023 season.
Courtesy of Isaia
Eleventy’s relaxed take on tailoring had a casual edge as the brand courts a younger demographic. The subdued color palette of dusty grays and blues and the sandy tones heightened the craftsmanship of linen double-breasted blazers worn with pajama style shirts and carrot pants, as well as a drawstring suit number in pale blue underpinned with a collegiate V-neck cable knit, or light gray pinstriped suits over Serafino shirts.
Courtesy of Eleventy
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