Italian island-hopping: a beginner's guide to exploring the lesser-known spots

Eoile - Getty Images
Eoile - Getty Images

It was a travelling rite of passage in my day, and doubtless still is, with variations: a three-day bus to Athens (£20 return), ferry from Piraeus, then an island-hopping odyssey around the Aegean – Paxos, Sifnos, Kos and more – sleeping on beaches and living off yogurt, bread and olives. Greece, of course, is made for such island-hopping adventures (it has more than 6,000 islands, for a start).

But what about another country lapped by some of the same seas – the Ionian and Adriatic – plus others of its own, such as the Tyrrhenian and Ligurian? A country that recently reduced its quarantine requirements from 14 days to five (as long as you can provide a negative test within 48 hours of your arrival)?

Italy has more than 450 islands beyond the well-known Sicily and Sardinia. It has similarly limpid waters and idyllic beaches. It also has more natural variety. And if I were being provocative, I would say it also has better food and wine, and is easier to get to. In short, it is just as tempting an island-hopping destination as Greece. But where to start?

Sicily offers the Aeolians, one of the best island groups in the Mediterranean, never mind Italy, along with the tiny, peaceful Egadi archipelago off the west coast. In Tuscany, Elba dominates a septet of islands, with Capraia its little-visited jewel. Off Puglia, the Tremiti Islands are the lure, while a short hop from Rome and Naples lies the sleepy Pontine archipelago.

These archipelagos, explored in more detail below, are only the start. If you develop the Italian island-hopping habit then there are eight more islands to explore: the Maddalena islands off Sardinia, say, or the 30-plus inhabited islands of the Venetian lagoon.

Prices are for double rooms with breakfast unless stated. Recommended mainland airports are the most convenient for onward travel to the islands.

Arcipelago Toscano

A paradise for wildlife lovers and wellness gurus

The Tuscan archipelago is the most varied of Italy’s island groups: a medley of seven islands (islepark.it), some featuring protected marine and wildlife reserves that are difficult to visit (parks.it), others, notably Elba (infoelba.it), a combination of summer resorts, busy towns, sleepy villages, mountains and fine beaches that attract summer visitors of every stripe. Elba is a world unto itself – big, busy and varied – on which you could spend weeks, so for a quieter island experience head to Capraia. It’s large enough to escape other visitors in the port and hill town above it (the only settlements) and the unspoiled interior is ideal for hiking – aim for the cliff scenery on the west coast or the trail to the Torre Zenobito, an old Genovese watchtower. Birdwatching is also excellent, thanks to 40 resident and many visiting species.

Elba - Getty
Elba - Getty

If you want to island hop from here to the verdant and wildlife-rich Gorgona, you will need to book your visit (prenotazioni.islepark.it). The same goes for Pianosa, a former prison colony (same website), though this is a flatter and less compelling island. Both islands can only be visited with official guides and tours unless you are scuba-diving off Pianosa (search immersioni at islepark.it for diving information). Giglio (giglioinfo.it) is the archipelago’s largest island after Elba and is much loved by Roman and foreign visitors. Many incomers are summer day-trippers, however, so visit in spring. The rugged coast means few beaches, though the village of Giglio Campese has a fine stretch of sand. If you want to be active, walk the interior trails or rent a bike and ride to Punta del Capel Rosso, the island’s southernmost tip. Hop to nearby Giannutri (giannutri.info/en) for an island escape second only to Capraia: small coves, idyllic swimming spots, an unspoiled interior, and just a handful of places to stay.

Getting there

Toremar (toremar.it) operates to and between most of the Tuscan islands but it is not possible to hop between all the islands. Services run from Livorno to, and between, Capraia and Gorgona; from Piombino to Cavo, Rio Marina and Portoferraio on Elba; and from Porto Santo Stefano to Giglio and Giannutri. Maregiglio (maregiglio.it) also operates to the last two islands and is typical of small operators across the archipelago in offering a variety of day-cruises. Fly to Pisa for Livorno.

Where to stay

Il Saracino (hotelsaracino.com; doubles from £160), a calm three-star with pool and sea views, makes a good base on Capraia. On Giglio, head for La Guardia (laguardiahotel.it; doubles from £115), a contemporary hotel. Giannutri offers B&Bs, rooms and short-term lets, such as the beautifully situated three-room B&B Casa Diana (@casa.diana.giannutri on Instagram; doubles from £115).

Isole Pontine

The ideal stop for foodies and those with a yen to be out on the water

The Isole Pontine are six islands in two groups off Italy’s west coast roughly midway between Rome and Naples. Of the two inhabited islands, Ponza and Ventotene, Ponza (prolocodiponza.it/en) is the best bet for an extended stay, a beautifully varied volcanic outpost. Island-hopping here will be in the shape of small boat excursions (barcaioliponza.it) from Ponza Town, the island’s only significant settlement, to the outlying islets of tiny Zannone and Palmarola. Jacques Cousteau described the latter as “the most beautiful island in the Mediterranean”, and though much is a restricted reserve, there are points where boats can dock to access isolated swimming spots and a handful of summer-only restaurants.

palmarola - Getty
palmarola - Getty

Ponza Town is delightful, with rows of pastel-coloured houses terraced above a quaint fishing harbour, and plenty of places to eat and drink. It has a small beach, but for the best swimming walk 10 minutes across the island to Chiaia di Luna or take a small boat to Spiaggia Santa Lucia

Getting there

Ponza is accessed from Naples, Formia, Terracina, San Felice and Anzio: Anzio is closest to Rome and journey time with Vetor (vetor.it) hydrofoils is 70 minutes. Laziomar (laziomar.it) runs most other services. Ponza Viaggi (ponzaviaggi.it) offers car/minibus transfers from Rome and Naples’ airports (from €120/£110 Rome Fiumicino to Anzio), while SNAV (snav.it) offers summer-only ferries between Ponza and Ventotene and the island of Ischia near Naples, opening up the chance to hop from Ischia to Capri and the Amalfi Coast.

Where to stay

Ponza’s most tempting contemporary hotel is the four-star Chiaia di Luna (hotelchiaiadiluna.com; doubles from £90), though it’s large and 10 minutes from town. In Ponza Town there are plenty of rooms (camere) and apartments or the more traditional four-star Santa Domitilla (santadomitilla.com; doubles from £150), with two seawater pools, a spa and lovely gardens.

Isole Eolie

The islands of choice for adventurous types and dessert wine enthusiasts in the know

Legendary home to Vulcan, god of fire, and Aeolus, god of the winds, the Aeolian (or Lipari) Islands are Italy’s best for island-hopping – and a World Heritage Site to boot. The seven islets are the remnants of volcanoes, active and extinct, and visitors come to witness volcanic activity in the raw (eruptions, hot pools, bubbling mud baths), and to enjoy small-town life, fabulous marine and coastal landscapes and swimming and snorkelling in aquamarine seas. Lipari (welcometolipari.it), the largest island, is the obvious base, with Salina a less busy alternative. Stromboli is the most popular excursion, thanks to its almost constant eruptions – hike towards the summit at night (guided tours only: contact magmatrek.it or stromboliguide.it), take a nocturnal boat trip or settle back for the show with a pizza at L’Osservatorio restaurant on the slopes.

Liparis -  Daniele Ciraolo
Liparis - Daniele Ciraolo

Lipari Town has great places to eat and drink (the Aeolians’ dessert wines are especially renowned), an interesting little museum (human activity on the island dates back 7,000 years) and plenty of charming nooks and crannies. Lounge on the Spiaggia Bianca or Valle Muria beach, hike to Monte Sant’Angelo or visit the interior’s old pumice mines. The island of Vulcano’s last major eruption was in 1890, but constant, low-level volcanic activity provides plenty of hot mud pools in which to soak. Or climb to the old crater, Fossa di Vulcano (1,282ft/391m), for sweeping views and cool off at the black-sand Sabbia Nero beach or quieter Asina or Cannitello waterfronts. There is little to say – in the best sense – about Panarea, Filicudi and Alicudi except that they offer delightful escapes, sublime coastlines, pretty interiors and captivating beaches.

Getting there

Ferries and hydrofoils (snav.it; libertylines.it; siremar.it) operate from Naples, Palermo, Cefalù and Messina but the most direct access is from Milazzo, 16 miles (26km) from Lipari on the Sicilian mainland (nearest airports Lamezia Terme and Catania). Ferries operate between all seven islands in the group.

Where to stay

You could easily spend a week or more exploring the Aeolians. Visit salinaturismo.it for a great collection of rooms, apartments and small villas for rent on Salina. Lipari has plenty of accommodation options, from rooms in white-washed traditional houses through to large resorts and boutique options such as La Settima Luna (lasettimalunahotel.it; doubles from £90).

Isole Egadi

Rich history and a deliciously slow pace of life await on this pint-sized archipelago

The Egadi archipelago off Sicily’s west coast offers the perfect island-hopping experience: three glorious small islets – Favignana, the largest, is eight square miles (21sq km) – of charm and variety. Favignana (favignana.sicilia.it) offers little to see or do – in a good way – save for some good beaches and exceptionally clear waters, notably at Cala Burrone, Cala Azzurra, Cala Rossa and Cala Rotonda. Bikes (noleggiobicifavignana.com) are easily rented and many fishermen offer boat trips (egadinbarca.com).

Favignana - Getty
Favignana - Getty

Levanzo is much smaller (at just two square miles/5.2sq km) but has more in the way of isolated island charm. There is just one tiny community and a single road but plenty of trails – the best leads to Pizzo Monaco (912ft/278m), the island’s highest point – and the island boasts plenty of bays and pebble beaches for swimming and snorkelling. Or visit the Grotta Genovese, which features cave art dating back 10,000 years. Magical Marettimo (marettimo.tp.it) is one of Italy’s loveliest small islands, thanks to its verdant interior, home to 515 species of plants and cover for thousands of nesting birds.

Getting there

Liberty Lines (libertylines.it) and Siremar (siremar.it) offer ferries and hydrofoils to and between the Egadi Islands from Trapani and Marsala. The nearest airport is Trapani.

Where to stay

Marettimo has a handful of similar B&Bs, all in the main port, with plain, modern rooms: La Terrazza (0039 368 768 1571; doubles from £50) is the most appealing, thanks to its terrace view of the sea over the rooftops.

Isole Tremiti

A snorkelling haven that’s perfect for beach-hopping and boating with the family

Outsiders are increasingly familiar with Puglia, the “heel” of the Italian “boot”, but less so with the five Tremiti Islands 14 miles (22km) from Puglia’s scenic showpiece, the Gargano peninsula, which makes up the boot’s spur. But be warned: Italians flock to the Gargano in summer, so visit off-season. Ferries dock at San Nicola, the smaller of the chain’s two inhabited islands. It’s also the greenest and a first choice if you can find accommodation.

Gargano - Getty
Gargano - Getty

Make for the shady coastal pineta (pine woods) at Pino d’Aleppo for swimming. All the islands have small beaches or rocky foreshores. Best of these are Cala dei Turchi, Cala di Sorrentino and Cala Pietra del Fucile on Capraia, served by small-boat operators such as Blu Tremiti (blutremiti.it). The islands have short hiking trails (the best is the three-mile/5km coastal circuit on San Domino) and Neolithic remains – contact Marlin (marlintremiti.com) for archaeological tours.

Getting there

Year-round Tirrenia (en.tirrenia.it) ferries run from Termoli to San Nicola. NLG (navlib.it) ferries operate seasonally (usually July-Sept) from Vasto, Vieste, Peschici and Rodi Garganico. Fly to Bari for Puglia and the Gargano.

Where to stay

Most hotels and rooms are on San Domino, but try for the calm, seven-room B&B La Casa di Gino (hotel-gabbiano.com; doubles from £105) on San Nicola for sea views and a lovely terrace for breakfast.

Top tips

When to travel

Autumn and spring (late April to early June) are delightful, especially in Sicily and the Tremiti, but be sure to book the limited accommodation available on the smaller islands.

Getting there

Most islands are served by both ships (traghetti) and hydrofoils (aliscafi). The latter are quicker, rarely take cars and are dearer. Many services are seasonal, usually June-August, or reduced outside the summer months.

Cabins

You only need to consider booking a cabin (cabina) if you take longer connecting options such as the ferry from Naples to the Aeolian Islands. Some services offer a more expensive seated option (poltrona) as opposed to deck space as a foot passenger.

Getting around

Cars are only necessary on the largest islands, namely Elba. Unlike foot passenger allocations on ferries, car space is relatively limited, so always book well in advance. Note that many islands ban cars altogether. Most islands have taxis and offer moped and bike rental – search online for “noleggio bici” plus the name of your destination to find rental shops.

Ferry fares

Most inter-island and short-hop ferries have fixed foot-passenger fares, so you won’t save with advance purchases (or need to book): just turn up and buy at the dock. Such fares may vary by a few euros depending on the season (June to August is high season); prices for cars and cabins are higher in summer and shoulder periods.

Booking agents

One-stop online booking agents for Italian ferries proliferate but they often add considerably to the face-value price of tickets. A one-way foot passenger fare from Livorno to Capraia on July 1, for example, costs €22.62 (£19.57) booked directly with the operator, Tiremar (tiremar.it). Book with traghetti.it, however, and you pay €10 in fees and €4 insurance, taking the price to €36.62 (£31.68).

Add-ons

Many ferry companies have gone the way of budget airlines and added fees for items such as additional luggage (typically €10/£8.65 per piece, per leg). You will also pay to take bikes: a bike from Naples to Ponza with SNAV (snav.it), costs €10 each way.

Overseas holidays are currently subject to restrictions.