Hyke’s designers have created an art form out of reimagining vintage military and workwear pieces with a modern touch, and their latest offering was no exception. This season, however, they also incorporated more outdoor influences and fabrics, for a collection that was effortlessly feminine and also decidedly modern.
Yukiko Ode and Hideaki Yoshihara opened their spring show — presented via a video shot in a cavernous hall — with a long and loose series in an allover pebble print. The long and loose skirt, dress and pants showed the river-inspired motif printed on slightly sheer, boiled wool polyester. The pieces foreshadowed another series to come, which used a plum tone inspired by ’90s outdoor wear to recreate paddling jackets. Ode said the idea came from her own love of kayaking and outrigger canoeing.
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Other pieces that stood out included long, macrame-like skirts with fringed hems. Made from the same cotton rope that is used to create hammocks, they added interest and movement to some of the simpler looks. It wasn’t the only textile that the designers employed in unconventional ways.
“One thing that is very unique and characteristic to Hyke is that we make outdoor-inspired pieces with a feminine touch,” Ode said. “We also use fabrics that are traditionally only used in menswear to make looks that are very feminine”
Examples of the latter included cropped sailor-front trousers, a sleeveless shell and a tailored blazer in a heavyweight linen normally used in men’s suits. The designers also played with contrasts, adding sheer organdy sleeves to denim chambray coveralls, layering delicate, pleated sheer skirts over trousers and pairing tiny ribbed knit crop tops with billowing, voluminous dresses.
Ode and Yoshihara rounded out the collection with a series of accessory collaborations: sandals by Keen, shoes by Beautiful Shoes, leather bags by Chacoli, and totes and mini backpacks by Porter.
Launch Gallery: Hyke RTW Spring 2023
RSVP for "A Matter of Style", a Fairchild Archive exhibition September 9-10 in New York City.