Copenhagen-based label Heliot Emil chose to stage its fall 2020 presentation as a virtual experience — scheduled like a fashion show, but held online only. “We’re trying to build this idea that everyone should be able to see this world we’re creating,” designer Julius Juul explained over the phone. The models were seen walking into a concrete and steel-clad room in front of a 360-degree camera, and via computer or smartphone, observers could move around, viewing the space from different angles, thanks to gyroscope sensors. The coed lineup channeled a utilitarian aesthetic in a palette of black, gray and touches of white, with metallic hardware and carabiners punctuating stark silhouettes, from chunky puffer jackets to asymmetric body-con dresses and boxy tailoring.
WWD Critique: Online fashion shows are having a bit of a moment, but the severe aesthetics and staging — and difficulties logging on — did not encourage engagement with the virtual experience.
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Launch Gallery: Heliot Emil RTW Fall 2020