Hedi Heads West, Jacquemus Stays in Paris, Lanvin Taps Raquel Zimmermann
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BACK TO THE WEST: Hedi Slimane is a tad late unveiling Celine’s spring 2023 collection, but he will be early — way early — with the one he’s designing for the following season.
WWD has learned that Slimane and Celine are plotting a fashion show in Los Angeles, California, on Dec. 8 to unveil the fall 2023 collection — more than two months before fashion weeks for that season kick off in New York, London, Milan and Paris.
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Meanwhile, the spring 2023 collection will be showcased as a film, to be streamed on Celine’s website and social platforms sometime during November — more than a month after Paris Fashion Week wrapped nearly a month of spring 2023 showings.
Celine’s spring 2023 collection was filmed on models in the south of France, but the precise timing and other details are still under wraps.
Likewise, Celine did not disclose an exact location for the Los Angeles runway event.
California has become a hot spot for destination shows, with Ralph Lauren, Dior, Louis Vuitton and Saint Laurent among brands that have mounted runway displays there in recent years.
Celine’s fall showing joins a smattering of itinerant runway events in early December, with Dior unveiling its pre-fall menswear in Egypt on Dec. 3 and Chanel its latest Métiers d’Art collection in Senegal.
A resident of Los Angeles throughout most of his years helming Saint Laurent, Slimane staged a big fashion show for that brand at The Hollywood Palladium in 2016.
He joined Celine as its creative and image director in 2019, leading the brand into menswear, fragrances, beachwear, made-to-order crocodile handbags — and even pet accessories.
He’s also made off-calendar timings for collection unveilings a feature of his Celine, which recently has been going from strength to strength.
Revealing its third-quarter sales results last month, LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton said revenues grew 24 percent in its fashion and leather goods division, and trumpeted very strong growth at Celine.
Slimane’s obsession with L.A. subculture and the cool kids in the indie rock scene preceded his arrival at Yves Saint Laurent in 2012, and stretch back to his influential stint as the designer of Dior Homme between 2000 and 2007.
“I arrived in California in 2008, and I was already very attracted to Los Angeles, where I frequently went since the end of the 1990s,” he told French newspaper Le Figaro in 2018. “I would start all my Dior collections there, in my hotel room. The city was still asleep, so it was the perfect time to fill in a blank page. There was no creative or artistic stimulation yet, nor was there an emergence of a strong music scene.…[Los Angeles] has changed today. It’s been taken over and the authenticity is slowly getting lost because the megalopolis appeals to the world and the youth. Los Angeles is an open-air construction site and its mythical places are disappearing day by day.” — MILES SOCHA
PARIS IS ALWAYS A GOOD IDEA: After forays to a beach in Hawaii and the Camargue salt flats in southern France, Simon Porte Jacquemus will return to Paris for his next off-calendar runway show.
His coed collection for the Jacquemus label, titled “Le Raphia,” is set to be unveiled on Dec. 12 at an undisclosed location in the French capital, according to the house. While the designer was coy about details, it’s safe to assume the backdrop will be chosen for maximum impact on Instagram, where he counts 5.1 million followers.
Jacquemus deems his collections seasonless, but the delivery corresponds roughly with the spring 2023 fashion season.
Known for his sunny designs and Provençal aesthetic, he prefers to stage fashion shows outside the traditional fashion calendar, and in unexpected natural settings such as a crop of wheat or a rolling field of lavender. In Paris, he has also held shows in film and television studios and a concert hall, among other locations.
Thanks to its digital savvy, the French fashion house doubled its sales in 2021 and is on track to do the same in 2022. Winner of the WWD Honor for Best-Performing Fashion Company, Small Cap, it has a medium-term ambition of reaching 500 million euros in revenues by 2025, said chief executive officer Bastien Daguzan.
Jacquemus recently dipped a toe into physical retail by opening a temporary boutique on Avenue Montaigne in Paris, which became instantly Instagrammable thanks to its most unusual feature: a giant popcorn machine that invites customers to serve themselves via an arcade-style claw.
The brand recently unveiled a collaboration with Nike, citing such an enthusiastic consumer response, the website crashed. — JOELLE DIDERICH
LEGO MASTERS: The Christmas trees in Louis Vuitton’s holiday windows this year will be made of plastic — thousands of Lego bricks, that is. The French luxury brand will team with master Lego builders to create the festive scenes that were unveiled on Oct. 29 and will remain on display until Jan. 1, the brand said on Thursday.
Vuitton previously collaborated with the Danish toy company on its “200 Trunks, 200 Visionaries” exhibition, which featured a giant birthday cake made of 31,700 Lego bricks. The traveling showcase arrived in New York City last month after previous stops in Paris, France; Singapore, and Los Angeles, California.
The holiday windows project, which coincides with the 90th anniversary of the Lego Group, will include a variety of concepts, from recreations of Paris landmarks like the Arc de Triomphe and the Pont Neuf bridge to high jewelry niches resembling the house’s signature trunks, complete with realistic hardware and handles.
Drawing inspiration from an archival image, trunks are stacked to resemble the Eiffel Tower, while the facade of certain stores will be adorned with exterior designs, spanning from 6 feet to almost 50 feet, accented with bricks. Meanwhile, special packaging will feature Lego motifs.
After the displays are taken down, the bricks will be repurposed through partnerships with local schools.
Last year, Vuitton dedicated the windows of boutiques around the world to the memory of Virgil Abloh, its former artistic director of men’s collections, who died of cancer on Nov. 28 at age 41. The displays featured large panels of smudged, vibrant color and the poignant tagline “Virgil was here.” — J.D.
SHADOW PLAY: Lanvin’s latest advertising features a topless Raquel Zimmermann, a striking new logo and creative direction by M|M Paris — and not a single handbag or full-length outfit.
Steven Meisel shot the black-and-white campaign, which is slated to break Wednesday with a massive billboard at the Louvre museum in Paris. It will also appear in tandem on Lanvin’s digital channels.
The brand campaign is meant to telegraph the French house’s new direction, hinged on a quieter form of chic linked to its claim to fame as the oldest fashion house in Paris. The clothes and accessories featured were pulled from the winter 2022 and pre-spring 2023 collections.
Lanvin is planning large outdoor exposure in key cities including Paris, New York, Hong Kong, Shanghai and Tokyo, as well as print and digital placements.
Besides the veteran model Zimmermann, recently absent from fashion runways, the campaign stars a slew of up-and-coming faces: Electra 3000, Wali Deutsch, Lex Peckham, Alay Deng and Lian Koster. Meisel also created a video featuring this diverse cast lounging around and posing. The tinkling piano music, static poses and minimal styling give off a retro allure.
According to the brand, these “intimate portraits” convey “the characteristics of a newly imagined Lanvin woman: cultured, curious, discreet, self-possessed and secure in just her own skin.”
The campaign was styled by Ludivine Poiblanc with Guido Palau doing hair and Pat McGrath handling makeup.
The rejiggered logo breaks with the recent glut of revamped, sans-serif fashion brands, many in variations of the Helvita typeface.
Lanvin’s spring 2023 collection hinged on pristine tailoring, pert cocktail dressing and carefully measured dollops of embellishment.
The house had already pointed to a more customer-focused, less fashion-driven product strategy with its resort collection, when its new deputy general manager Siddhartha Shukla summed up the new direction as “restoring elegance and sophistication to the everyday.”
As part of its revamp, the house is also plotting a newly designed website and boutique concept debuting in the first half of 2023. — M.S.
ART AND MORE: Dior is bringing back its “Art ’N Dior” exhibition to China, with a second edition that includes not only reinterpretations of its iconic Lady Dior handbag by leading contemporary artists, but also a room devoted to the house’s signature Medallion chair.
After a first edition in 2021 staged in Shenzhen and Shanghai, the exhibit is returning to Shanghai’s West Bund Art Center this year. It will be held from Nov. 10 to 15 to coincide with the West Bund Art & Design contemporary art fair.
The show will include a section dedicated to the roving exhibition “Lady Dior as Seen By,” featuring pieces by several Chinese artists, such as Yang Mian, Zhang Ruyi and the duo of Liu Wa and Yang Bao, in addition to international artists Oh You-Kyeong, Youssef Nabil and Camilla Akrans.
It will also preview pieces from the seventh edition of the Dior Lady Art project ahead of its global launch on Jan. 5.
This includes space-inspired designs by Chinese artist Wang Yuyang, which will be displayed alongside some of his best-known art works, such as his painting “The Moon 20190810” and his “Artificial Moon” sculpture made with 10,000 energy-saving lightbulbs and fluorescent tubes.
The French fashion house said the art show was rooted in the history of founder Christian Dior, who was a gallery owner before becoming a couturier. It is expanding the exhibition to include a section on the Louis XVI-style chair that has been a symbol of Dior since the house was founded in 1947.
In 2021, the house commissioned more than a dozen artists and designers, including Chinese architect Ma Yansong, to put their spin on the furniture classic. His work, named Meteor, is made of 3D-printed monochrome polyurethane and simulates the appearance of the chair in motion. — J.D.
TIMELY RETURN: Jennifer Lawrence is the latest “ambassador of elegance” chosen by Swiss watchmaker Longines.
Longines’ chief executive officer Matthias Breschan lauded Lawrence’s “ability to imbue every character she plays with reality and authenticity,” a quality that translates offscreen into a “natural and relatable” elegance.
In a statement, Lawrence described the Swiss brand as being “rooted in a legacy of innovation and quality trusted by some of history’s greatest trailblazers.”
She defined elegance “as a quiet powerfulness met with grace and confidence.” As a Kentucky native, the award-winning actress added she associated Longines not only with “timeless elegance” but also with the state’s annual Kentucky Derby horse race.
Longtime Dior ambassador Lawrence, who welcomed her first child with her gallerist husband Cooke Maroney in February, made a remarked return to the red carpet at the 66th BFI London Film Festival for the premiere of “Causeway.”
Not only does it signal her return to the silver screen after a three-year hiatus, starring as a U.S. Army veteran returning from combat with a brain injury, but this is also her first credit as a producer after starting her own production company in 2018.
Other Longines ambassadors include fellow actors Regé-Jean Page, Aishwarya Rai Bachchan, Eddie Peng, Zhao Liying, Kate Winslet and Simon Baker, as well as Olympic skier Mikaela Shiffrin. — LILY TEMPLETON
PRECISION PLAYER: Canadian actress Taylor Russell, who opened Loewe’s spring 2023 fashion show in Paris last month wearing a short black velvet dress with panniers, has been named a global ambassador for the Madrid-based fashion house.
Russell’s first assignment for the LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton-owned brand is starring in its upcoming campaign for the spring 2023 pre-collection, lensed by Juergen Teller.
Jonathan Anderson, Loewe’s creative director, met Russell through a mutual friend: Italian filmmaker Luca Guadagnino, and he found her extremely inspiring from the get-go.
Speaking to reporters backstage after the spring 2023 Loewe show, he related: “When I was thinking of this collection, I had been thinking about Taylor Russell opening this show.…I just thought there was something about this precision in someone who is ultimately about the future of acting, or the future of performance.”
Russell becomes Loewe’s first global ambassador based in North America.
“Jonathan has been at the forefront of creativity in fashion, with such a distinct vision and voice,” Russell commented. “I am excited for our imaginations to reach new heights as we explore and collaborate in this incredibly special partnership.”
Russell stars in Guadagnino’s teen cannibal romance “Bones and All” opposite Timothée Chalamet and Mark Rylance, which premiered at the 2022 Venice International Film Festival and will hit theatres on Nov. 23.
The actress caught attention for her recurring role in the Netflix series “Lost in Space” and the Trey Edward Shults film “Waves,” released in 2019 and for which Russell won a Gotham Award as best breakthrough actor.
According to Loewe, Russell is also a producer and she codirected the short documentary, “The Heart Still Hums,” which chronicles five women as they fight for their children through the cycle of drug addiction, homelessness and the trauma of neglect from their own parents.
Loewe’s other global brand ambassadors are Josh O’Connor, Tang Wei and South Korean girl group Nmixx. — M.S.
PARTY TIME: It’s a party at London’s Claridge’s hotel in Jimmy Choo’s winter 2022 campaign, featuring British actor and model Iris Law with Mica Argaňaraz and Stan Taylor.
The winter collection was lensed by London-based photographer Angelo Pennetta, who often shoots for the likes of i-D, Dazed and Confused and The Gentlewoman.
The campaign features a Christmas theme throughout with its bright hues and festive bows. Law and Argaňaraz are wearing the pink and red Flaca sandals with the Bon Bon bag, as well as the thigh-high Giome boots.
The quilted Avenue handbag has been translated for the merry season in plush red velvet.
Meanwhile, Taylor models the brand’s men’s offerings of the Foxley loafer in ruby red.
The campaign is accompanied by a social media hashtag: #PartyWithJimmyChoo.
In October, Jimmy Choo partnered with The RealReal to offer customers of the brand the chance to resell their shoes.
“Our partnership with The RealReal reinforces our commitment to the circular economy in addition to our established repair service,” Hannah Colman, Jimmy Choo’s chief executive officer said in a statement at the time.
“The partnership allows us to champion resale by offering our clients an opportunity to give their luxury items a second life. This partnership ties back to the goals we are committed to in our sustainability manifesto.”
The Jimmy Choo campaign is part of the brand’s ongoing quest to secure the “It” girls of Instagram. Last season, Kendall Jenner made her debut with the luxury accessories brand in its fall 2022 campaign shot by Carlijn Jacobs in Los Angeles, California. — HIKMAT MOHAMMED
TOGETHER AGAIN: Ralph Lauren is embracing togetherness for the upcoming holiday season.
On Thursday, the company will launch “The Gift of Togetherness,” a campaign featuring well-known faces Shalom Harlow, Tyson Beckford, Lucky Blue Smith and others.
The campaign is intended to highlight the brand’s “core values of togetherness and timelessness, inspiring everyone to come together to celebrate one another,” the company said.
The campaign, which features key looks from the brand in black or white with pops of red, was shot inside a New York apartment and shows friends enjoying a holiday party.
The campaign was shot by Alasdair McLellan and Zackery Michael and also features Lulu Tenney, Amane Taniguchi, Sacha Quenby, Mariam de Vinzelle, Andreea Diaconu, Ella Rattigan, Coralie Jean-Francois, Hamid Onifadé, Daryl Dismond, Jeenu Mahadevan, Dae Na, Simon Nessman and James Turlington.
In addition to the campaign, which will run in print, on digital channels as well as outdoor ads, the Ralph Lauren app will feature a special a “7 Days, 7 Drops” promotion the first week in December when vintage skiwear, limited-edition snowboards, skis and posters will be available for purchase. The company’s stores around the world will also get into the holiday spirit. In New York, shoppers will be offered complimentary treats and custom illustrations, while the Ginza flagship in Tokyo, Japan, will install a pop-up ice skating rink and London’s Bond Street flagship will host musical performances.
The company is showing its philanthropic side during the holiday season by donating 100 percent of the purchase price of its Pink Pony oxford shirts or fleece hoodies and 25 percent of the purchase price of the Pink Pony cashmere hoodie to the Pink Pony Fund of The Ralph Lauren Corporate Foundation or a network of international cancer charities. — JEAN E. PALMIERI
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