In his first runway show for a cruise collection, Giorgio Armani touched down in the island nation of Japan, and brought with him even more of an island vibe.
“The collection is a condensed version of my style, which has remained consistent over the years — like an island in the fashion system,” the designer said. “The burnt, neutral colors and tactile, raw textures reference characteristic island landscapes.”
Even the runway itself resembled water flowing over sand, with clear Plexiglass panels covering a beige carpet and throwing ripple-like reflections onto the surrounding walls. The show began with looks in neutral shades, eventually moving on to more vibrant reds and blues. But each look was relaxed and easy, with lots of fluid shapes.
Armani also made ample use of soft, natural textures. Linen, silk and satin were accented with leather trim and sumptuous knits. Lightweight fabrics were often used in voluminous pieces, from oversized women’s blouses and flowing ponchos to pleated men’s trousers that gathered at the ankle like jogging pants.
The accessories were also big and bold. Wide belts with exaggerated buckles defined the waist of coats and pants, tortoiseshell necklaces were chunky and layered and brooches and earrings packed a punch with their sheer size and bright, shiny colors.
For cruise, Armani’s men’s suits were more casual than usual, but just as expertly tailored. In soft fabrications, they were styled more for the harbor than the city, accented with suspenders and often paired with neckerchiefs instead of neckties.
The women’s offering featured some slimmer silhouettes, but placed the same importance on comfort, with far more flat shoes than heels, plenty of soft knits and many loose, billowing shapes. One standout piece was a sheer black dress, gathered into pleats from the neck to the waist and secured at the collarbone with a cord. Complete with pockets, it was a picture of effortless elegance.
The final series of women’s looks consisted of slightly more formal pieces, many of which were intricately beaded or embroidered. Deep blue velvet contrasted with red sequins in botanical patterns, and a long, roomy red skirt looked modern and cool with a relaxed pullover in sheer horizontal stripes. Homegrown model Ai Tominaga closed out the show in a floor-length, beaded seafoam green gown that buttoned up to a shirt collar.
Launch Gallery: Giorgio Armani Cruise 2020