Genus’s New Titanium Watch Is Forged Using Ancient Methods From Japanese Swordsmiths

Martin Lerma

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What do katana swords and Genus’s latest timepiece have in common? They’re both made with centuries-old metalworking technique that separate them from their peers.

For the first time, the Swiss watchmaker known for flouting convention––its complications read time sans traditional dials and hands––created a timepiece, the GNS1.2 TD, forged from Damascene Titanium. The rare metal, which is seldom ever used even in the most exclusive watches, is treated using a method called mokume-gane practiced by Japanese swordsmiths since the 17th century.

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The time-honored process involves the repeated hammering and folding of the metal, something requiring immense skill, and results in a remarkable look; the individual layers can be seen laminated together. And because it’s titanium, it also happens to be three times stronger than steel while also being 40 percent lighter. The extremely high temperatures needed to fire the piece––between 2,192 and 2,552 degrees Fahrenheit––only serve to enhance its hardness and durability.

Every example of the GNS1.2 TD has blue dye applied to it by hand while over an open flame. The scorching temperature and coloring highlight its natural layers simultaneously for an almost psychedelic effect. Future owners are invited to attend this portion of the construction, when they can also decide on their desired finish: matte, satin or polished. The strata are made even more visible as the initial block of titanium is shaped and molded into the final 43mm case. The use of these ancient methods is all the more striking when considering Genus launched as a business just last year.

The 18K gold in-house, manually wound movement (which won the Mechanical Exception Prize at the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève for 2019) is housed within. It’s complete with 26 jewels and operates at 2.5 Hz or 18’000 vibrations per hour with a 50-hour power reserve and is water-resistant up to 30 meters. Customization options extend to the fastening with buyers able to select either a strap cut from hand-stitched calfskin or alligator upon special request.

Head over to the brand’s website to learn more and order one of your own. That is, if you have $155,930 handy.

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