Findhorn: Hippy commune or fun-loving fishing village?

Say Findhorn and those of a certain age may well respond ‘commune’ – possibly with a slightly far-away look in their eyes, or even a muttered ‘you had to be there, man’.

But the local foundation for spiritual, sustainable living and accompanying eco-village, as well as the nearby former fishing village, have thrived in this quietly beautiful seaside position, drawing artists and visionaries who four years ago founded a bi-annual festival that’s already attracting both local and international attention to a six-day celebration of arts and culture, this year from September 26 to October 1.

Anything more down to earth?

Findhorn Bay is on the Moray Firth, five miles outside of the fetching little town of Forres on the unfairly overlooked northeast coast of Scotland. Bracketed by miles of silver sand merging into dunes backed by fairytale forests of pine, Findhorn is all about big skies and sea, with a cluster of fisherman’s cottages near the village harbour and a whimsical scattering of colourful traditional beach huts.

Full of old-fashioned family seaside appeal the endless beaches are perfect for a spot of competitive kite-flying. If you can’t wait to get on the water, Findhorn Marina Watersports has sailing, powerboat courses and a terrific games-based learn-to-sail activity day for kids—wetsuits supplied.

Go along on a Friday evening and all ages can try some (supervised) mucking about on the water—perfect for adults who want to pose on a paddleboard (activities from £20; findhornwatersports.weebly.com). For something less strenuous (and potentially less humiliating), book a marine wildlife adventure for some leisurely dolphin-spotting (adults from £30; children from £25; north58.co.uk).

Keen walkers will want to strike out across the sands, well-supplied with tea and ginger biscuits. It is possible to walk for miles, with every possibility of finding a stretch of shoreline littered with laid-back seals. If it’s windy take cover in the Culbin Woods, where paths wind through the sand-floored pine forest to the top of the ‘Hill 99’ dune. It has surprisingly good views across the Firth to the mountains beyond (scotland.forestry.gov.uk/visit/culbin).

Isn’t it a bit windy for seaside strolls?

If wind-blown sand is too big a risk to the complexion, consider a trip to the nearby market town of Elgin. It has an photogenic ruined cathedral (£4.50) and an even more attractive cashmere mill. There’s an informative exhibition—if you can get past a shop full of irresistible knitwear in mouth-watering colours (johnstonscashmere.com).

If your passion is for whisky rather than wool, you’re still in the right place—surrounded by famous Speyside distilleries. Make a start at the historic Dhallus Dhu distillery outside Forres (adults from £6; historicenvironment.scot).

I’m in Scotland, where are the castles?

Keen on a keep? Check out MacBeth’s gaff at Cawdor Castle (adults from £11.50; children from £7.20; cawdorcastle.com), returning along rural backroads via Dulsie Bridge. Part of a military road built in 1755 it’s an engineering wonder you have to see from below to truly appreciate, which you can accomplish by (carefully) following the path down to the river on the north side of the bridge.

Continue to Ardclach, an unusually lonely bell tower separated from its church, which lies hidden at the end of a nearby track in a peaceful clearing on a lazy curve of the Findhorn River (historicenvironment.scot). It’s an enchanting spot to break out a picnic basket, particularly with the leaves at their autumn best.

If one castle’s not enough, you won’t want to miss Brodie Castle, a picture postcard beauty so ‘des res’ you’ll be looking for your mortgage-lender’s number before you’re in the front door. It’s worth visiting for the nursery alone: children will be entranced; grown men of a certain vintage may well become emotional (adults from £11; child from £6.50; nts.org.uk/visit/places/brodie-castle).

It’s also the venue for the Findhorn Arts Festival production of ‘The Buke of the Howlat’, a musical adventure based on a 15th-century poem about an unhappy owl (a sort of medieval version of the ugly duckling). The production (and possibly the audience if they forget their umbrellas) will be soaked in atmosphere as the play weaves its way through the wooded castle grounds at dusk (adult, £12; child, £10).

Part of a festival programme (findhornbayfestival.com) offering theatre and exhibitions, music, activities, local food and much else besides, there are special ticket prices for families and free events as well. You can travel in style between venues on a vintage shuttle bus or consider hiring bicycles—Findhorn is obligingly flat (bikespokes.co.uk).

What’s for eats?

If the weather’s fine (or even if it’s not), it would be a shame not to have a drink Findhorn harbour-side at The Crown and Anchor (crownandanchorinn.co.uk). Consider tucking into a sustaining and culturally appropriate bowl of Cullen Skink or battered haddock and chips.

Should you be fine-dining inclined, you will want to make the 20-minute drive to Boath House—an unusually grand restaurant with rooms. You’ll find a sublime three-course dinner on offer where the ingredients: ‘chickpea, chilli, cashew and beansprout’, or ‘sirloin, shallot, cauliflower, wild mushroom, salsify’ add up to an impressive sum of their parts (boath-house.com).

No one’s volunteered to be the designated driver...

Then you should seriously consider staying put if you intend to dine at Boath. A classic Georgian estate in miniature (complete with park), the rooms are a mix of traditional and contemporary with luxurious feature baths and walk-in showers. It’s not an economy option, but if you’re pushing the boat out consider pushing it further by staying in room 3 (the master bed chamber) to enjoy side-by-side slipper baths with a view. (telegraph.co.uk/tt-boath-house; doubles from £295). There’s a dreamy little one-bedroom cottage in the grounds, too (from £150 per night, three-night minimum).

Or try Blervie House outside Forres: virtually a stately home turned guesthouse. It’s superbly traditional, absurdly glamorous and comes with its own peacock—not to mention goose down duvets and a kitchenette for guests on each floor (doubles with breakfast from £120; blervie.com).