Fila RTW Spring 2020

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The show had an Olympic opening ceremony feel, with sleek and shapely male and female models strutting their stuff in the athletic-inspired clothing, swimsuits and the hardcore outerwear that made the brand famous.

The audience sat in a dark room on white F-logo spongy cushions, and watched from the bleachers as a seemingly endless lineup of models walked under bright lights. Behind them was a billowing scrim printed with blue waves, meant to resemble the sea.

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Creative directors Antonino Ingrasciotta and Joseph Graesel, who joined Fila last year, are taking their job seriously at the Italian brand owned by the South Korean businessman Gene Yoon.

As the designer streetwear craze has begun to wane — on the runway at least — the two have been broadening Fila’s reach and appeal, giving the collection a softer touch and ensuring the outerwear and sporty pieces are sharply tailored, or sculpted. No baggy track suits or lumpy anoraks here.

Their handsome collection, inspired by the pool, beach and maritime pursuits, included a striped halter top dress with a handkerchief hem, a black, zip-front skater dress with a pleated skirt and even an elegant boxy tailored jacket in Fila’s signature dark blue. An iridescent purple and green anorak which changed color under the lights was a showstopper.

The unisex pieces, including a lineup of functional anoraks made from mesh; billowy or jelly textured materials, or traditional matte technical fabrics, were lightweight, chic and colorful. The designers also revived one of the brand’s most famous sailing jackets, in all its yellow, zippered glory, sculpting around the body.

They even sent out one the folks over at NASA will love, a shiny silver, hooded parka that slipped alluringly off the model’s shoulder. Not ideal for a moon walk, but ideal for the post-splashdown press conference.

Launch Gallery: Fila RTW Spring 2020

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