There’s nothing more romantic than a gray day in Paris. And this morning inside the Grand Palais, the Chanel Spring 2020 show conjured that exact milieu by transforming the runway into the iconic rooftops of the French capital, complete with traditional zinc cladding and antique brick chimneys. Romping around the gritty Parisian cityscape—wearing tights and hot pants, dancing to Gordon Staples & The Motown Strings’ 1969 hit “All the Shades in Between”—this season’s girl looked as if she was plucked from a French New Wave film. But while the clothes were a distinct interpretation of the Nouvelle Vague with tweed onesies, Breton striped jackets, and frothy minidresses, above the neck it was more about capturing the movement’s youthful disposition.
“We didn’t want to go too literal with the references and do thick eyeliner and lashes,” explained Chanel’s global creative makeup and color designer Lucia Pica backstage. “Virginie [Viard] really wanted the girls to look super-fresh.” As such, Pica enhanced the complexions of Gigi Hadid, Kaia Gerber, and Blésnya Minher with a light wash of Les Beiges Eau de Teint, before swiping a Baume Essentiel stick in unreleased shade Golden Light across the bridge of the nose and high parts of the apples of the cheeks and tapping on faux freckles for a “sun-kissed” glow. Moving to the eyes, she smoked out the lids softly with a bright rose quartz shadow and added a layer of shimmering illuminator before grooming the brows “boyishly” and adding a few coats of mascara. Adding to the warm color story, she then painted Rouge Allure Liquid Powder in coral pink Radical on the lips, concentrating it on the middle of the lips, then blending it out on the outer edges for a diffused effect. For extra punch, she applied a light concealer around the lip lines and added a slick of high-shine Rouge Coco Gloss in Crystal Clear. “The gloss on top adds this juicy texture to it,” she explained while adding vinyl-like shine to Gerber’s pout. “It almost looks as if the girls have been eating a strawberry.”
In a similar spirit, there was an air of ease to the hair. “It’s very simple, but it’s lush,” explained editorial pro Sam McKnight, who, after adding in a few trompe l’oeil extensions, didn’t do much to finesse each girl’s natural texture save for a few passes of a wide-barrel curling iron and a little Lazy Girl Dry Shampoo on the roots. “What we’re not doing is blow-drying them to death,” he laughed. It was all about creating thick, luxurious-feeling hair that would move with the breeze. On the girls with straight hair, McKnight used a Dyson Supersonic hair dryer and round brush to bevel the ends inward. “That’s what gives it that swing!” he proclaimed while running his fingers through Vittoria Ceretti’s slightly flippy raven lengths. Chic, but not overthought, the new era of Chanel is ushering in a less-is-more beauty attitude, one with undeniable real-world appeal.
Originally Appeared on Vogue