Everything you need to know about visiting Stratford-upon-Avon
William Shakespeare’s birthplace straddles the River Avon as it slides south west and a large canal basin adds to the watery feel. It was the eighteenth-century actor David Garrick who staged the first major ‘Shakespeare Jubilee’ here (inadvertently causing the destruction of the playwright’s fine house at New Place, razed to the ground by an owner enraged by nosy Bardophiles). The Royal Shakespeare Theatre originally opened in 1879 and with its two sister theatres – The Swan and The Other Place – is the lifeblood of the town. The Shakespeare Birthplace Trust oversees five properties associated with the playwright, including a garden and museum at New Place. Stratford also happens to be a lovely town, with some glorious buildings, fine circular walks and some jolly good pubs.
How to get there
Transport links are not great so driving, sadly, could be the easiest way to arrive. But there are coach links and a railway station and you could always walk or cycle the 146-mile Shakespeare’s Way (shakespearesway.org) from Shakespeare’s Globe in London.
Trains from London Marylebone with Chiltern Railways (chilternrailways.co.uk) take two hours, less if you change at Leamington Spa. It’s 40 minutes from Birmingham Moor Street/Snow Hill with London Midland (londonmidland.com).
National Express Coaches (nationalexpress.com) connect with cities such as London, Coventry and Bristol, but while cheaper, journeys are longer.
Bridgeway Multi-Storey Car Park, just across the river from the theatre, costs £2 for the night from 4pm to 8am, go early to get a space (stratford.gov.uk/parking-roads-transport/car-parks-in-stratford-upon-avon.cfm).
Tour or no tour?
The town is small and on a grid, so it’s easy to get around. For highlights, two-hour Town Walks (01789 292478; stratfordtownwalk.co.uk), £6 adults, £5 concessions, £3 under 16s, under 8s free) leave from near the theatre 365 days a year. Hop-On Hop-Off Bus Tours (01789 299123; https://city-sightseeing.com/en/100/stratford-upon-avon/262/hop-on-hop-off-stratford-upon-avon) cost £14 adults, £12 concessions, £7 children), include 11 stops and are great for orientation.
Highlights for adults
Get a Full Story ticket from the Shakespeare Birthplace Trust (01789 204016; shakespeare.org.uk) covering all five sites (online £20.25 adults, £18.90 concessions, £13.05 children 3 to 17) and walk the mile or so to Anne Hathaway’s Cottage at Shottery. As you stroll, imagine Shakespeare taking the same route to visit the woman he would marry – and to whom he left his ‘second-best bed.’
Least visited of the five is charming Hall’s Croft, his daughter’s married home: it makes a circuit with Shottery and Holy Trinity Church (01789 266316; stratford-upon-avon.org): don’t miss Shakespeare’s bust, his curse or the fine misericords.
Theatre, of course. The Swan (01789 403493; rsc.org.uk) wraps around its stage on three sides and often shows work by Shakespeare’s contemporaries, setting the Bard in context. In summer, see free shows at The Dell in Avonbank Gardens.
Highlights for children
Children are fascinated by Shakespeare’s Schoolroom & Guildhall (01789 203170; shakespearesschoolroom.org), the wonky, beamed classroom on the Guildhall’s top floor since the 1560s - perhaps they can imagine young Will stuck at his desk. There’s plenty to do – Elizabethan homework, anyone? – and it’s part of the real (and even older) King Edward VI School next door. Online tickeets £7.20 adults, £5.40 concessions, £4.50 children aged 5 to 17.
In summer (mid-March to late October) hire an 8-seater canoe, available by the hour from Avon Boating (01789 267073; avon-boating.co.uk) and paddle along the languid, shady Avon en famille. The canoes are wide and stable, so fine for children of all ages, but under-16s must be accompanied by an adult.
Of the Big Five, Mary Arden’s Farm at Wilmcote (see above) is the best all-round option for children, with a farmyard, lots of re-enactors doing rural things and the very simple farmhouse itself. Also open mid-March to late October.
Best time to visit
April 23: Shakespeare’s birth and death day, week of the Stratford-upon-Avon Literary Festival stratfordliteraryfestival.co.uk and early in the RSC’s Summer Season, when the town is stuffed with actors, the river looks gorgeous and everyone is fresh after winter.
Where to eat
The Opposition (01789 269980; theoppo.co.uk) on Sheep Street, a minute from the river, is friendly and cosy, good for something to eat and a glass of wine before the theatre. Two-course set dinners from £15.
A bit more elegant is The Townhouse (01789 262222; churchst-th.co.uk) on Church Street, a restaurant with rooms with pre-theatre meals from £14.50 for two courses 12 to 3pm and 5 to 7pm.
Best view
The 104-foot tall Theatre Tower (01789 403493; rsc.org.uk/your-visit/tours-and-tower) at the Royal Shakespeare Theatre has 360° views of the town and surrounding landscape: £2.50 adults, £1.25 for under-18s, two under-16s free with every paying adult) with. Opens 10 am, closing varies according to matinees. Full tours available.
Stratford tips
Fingers on buzzers at midday every summer Friday, when the RST releases a number of £10 Rush Tickets for shows the following week (01789 403493; www.rsc.org.uk).
Information
Stratford-upon-Avon Tourist Information Office (01789 264293).
Shakespeare’s England www.shakespeares-england.co.uk).
