Everything You Need to Know About Skin Purging, According to Dermatologists
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Only people who are acne-prone understand the lengths one will go to achieve clear skin. With every new breakout-fighting treatment comes the dream that this one will actually work, and then, sometimes, the (seemingly) opposite happens: skin purging. More aggravated pimples surface, the skin gets dry and peels, and the disheartening feeling of having taken one step forward and two steps back settles in.
Whenever you try a new exfoliating product, there’s always a risk of skin purging. But it’s actually a temporary, and sometimes necessary step to refined, glowing skin.
Ahead, dermatologists explain what skin purging is, what to expect from the skin purging process, treatments, and more.
What is skin purging?
Skin purging occurs when a product’s active ingredients increase skin cell turnover, explains Suneel Chilukuri, M.D., board-certified dermatologist and founder of Refresh Dermatology in Houston, Texas. “As a result, one may have unexpected breakouts due to blocked pores,” she adds. The sudden, intense exfoliation can also cause an inflammatory reaction, adds Zenovia Gabriel, M.D., board-certified dermatologist and founder of Dr. Zenovia Skincare Hormonal Dermatology, which can make existing pimples more red and reactive.
Although this process may appear like the skin is “purging” itself of impurities, Gabriel adds that the name is somewhat misleading, because most often, existing breakouts or congestion are simply having an inflammatory reaction to new treatment.
Skin purging causes
“Topical vitamin A, also known as retinol or retinoic acid, is the most frequent culprit when it comes to skin purging,” explains Dr. Chilukuri. Research published in the Journal of Clinical and Aesthetic Dermatology corroborates this, having found that retinol treatment initially provoked acne flare-ups in some study participants. Other actives like glycolic, lactic, and salicylic acid may also trigger skin purging, Chilukuri adds.
“These exfoliating ingredients increase cell turnover and cause pimples that were already forming under the skin’s surface to pop up sooner than they would have on their own,” says Gabriel. Plus, they can lead to dry skin, which can worsen inflammation and, therefore, the purging process, she adds.
Aside from skincare, Dr. Gabirel says oral acne medications such as isotretinoin (Accutane) may also lead to purging. Sensitive, dry, or eczema-prone skin is also more likely to purge, she adds.
What does skin purging look like?
Skin purging most commonly occurs in areas where you typically break out (think: chin and forehead), and it usually presents in the form of small pustules, blackheads, or whiteheads, says Dr. Gabriel. “Additionally, purging is commonly accompanied by dry, flaky skin and mild tenderness because the inflammatory process is triggered,” she adds.
Skin purging vs. breakout
It can be difficult to tell the difference between an anticipated purge and new acne. Dr. Gabriel says purging usually happens in your normal breakout areas, and it typically comes with flakiness and a pink tinge to the skin.
So, if you find a spot in an abnormal place, it’s likely not due to purging, and may be a reaction to something like a new comedogenic sunscreen or makeup product, Gabriel continues. “If you are oilier and getting fresh new pustules, then these are signs of new acne development,” she adds.
Lastly, skin purges should clear up in a timely manner. This is because “when controlled appropriately,” says Dr. Chilukuri, increased cell turnover ultimately leads to decreased acne over time.
How long does skin purging last?
“While it differs from person to person, and it is rather rare, purging should subside within four to six weeks,” says Dr. Gabriel, which is about how long it takes for the skin to re-normalize. If you begin to experience major discomfort and don’t notice any improvement by week three, Gabriel recommends seeing a dermatologist, as you may have an infection that needs alternative treatment. She adds that inflamed, dry skin is more susceptible to bacterial infection and should be monitored closely.
Is skin purging a good thing?
Purging is generally a positive sign that exfoliating skincare is working effectively, says Dr. Gabriel. “Once the purging has subsided, the skin that is left behind will be smoother and less congested. It just takes some time,” she adds. However, that’s not to say that the dryness caused by purging should be ignored—excess flakiness can lead to additional inflammation and should be calmed with restoring moisturizers, Gabriel adds.
Skin purging treatment
“While it’s impossible to completely avoid a skin purge when using new therapies like isotretinoin, retinols, or acids, the trick is to go slow,” says Dr. Gabriel. Introduce new products one at a time, and if irritation pops up, space out applications to every other day. “This gives your skin time to adjust and doesn’t lead to skin shock,” Gabriel adds.
To protect your skin from further irritation during a purge, Dr. Chilukuri, a PanOxyl partner, recommends using a non-drying cleanser like PanOxyl’s Acne Creamy Wash to remove dirt and impurities while preventing overgrowth of acne-producing bacteria. To keep scaliness at bay, she also suggests using a daily moisturizer.
What not to do when your skin is purging
When you see a purge surfacing, you may be inclined to start throwing more active ingredients at it. Don’t. “You should ease back on the products and use them less frequently,” says Gabriel. She also warns against picking any spots, as that can cause scars and additional irritation. If any blemishes are particularly stubborn, she suggests using a non-irritating spot treatment like Dr. Zenovia’s 5% Benzoyl Peroxide Acne Spot Treatment on the affected areas.
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