Everything You Need to Know About Permanent Makeup

Because yes, you can tattoo on perfectly winged eyeliner.

When it comes to beauty, it takes a high-maintenance mentality to live a low-maintenance lifestyle.

Looking to cut down on your everyday hair care routine? A keratin treatment every three to four months can keep otherwise frizzy, curly hair looking silky smooth, even when air dried. Not enough time for a weekly mani touch ups? Gel nail polish promises a chip-free, virtually indestructible manicure that lasts triple the time.

When it comes to creating long-lasting makeup effects, your options are decidedly more intense. The allure of permanent makeup is certainly tempting—imagine never having to redo your winged eyeliner ever again—but it’s not without its downsides, namely a pretty serious commitment, a couple hours of pain, and, of course, the potential for some not-so-great risks.

From cost to technique to the most popular procedures, read on for everything you need to know about permanent makeup.

What is Permanent Makeup?

“Permanent makeup, also known as cosmetic tattooing, micropigmentation or dermapigmentation is a type of superficial tattooing that involves applying pigment into the skin’s dermal layer to enhance features such as eyebrows, eyes, and lips,” explains Emilia Berry, founder and CEO of PermaLine Cosmetics. “It is also used in the paramedical field to camouflage scarring, simulate hair, and recreate areolas.”

But this isn’t your average tattooing job. Rather, a small handheld device equipped with either a single or multiple needles (depending on the technique) deposits specially made pigment into the skin at a shallow depth. These pigments contain a lower concentration of colorants and a higher ratio of liquid than traditional tattoo ink, for a more natural finish on the skin, says Cindy Vu, founder of Beauty Elements and Lux Series Salon in Orange County, California. They also fade gradually over time, unlike traditional tattoo ink.

Given that fading, permanent makeup is, in actuality, only semi-permanent. According to Vu, pigment can last for several years before it begins to fade, and touch ups will likely be required over time to maintain the desired effect. And while specific timeframes for refreshers vary from person to person (depending on factors like pigment type, tattoo location, client age, lifestyle choices, and skin type), they’re generally needed every one to three years.

But that’s not necessarily a bad thing. “It’s actually desirable to have a pigment that fades when doing cosmetic work on the face,” says Kendra Bray, owner and founder of Better Brows & Beauty in New York City. “Our faces change and age over time, so being able to make changes as the years go on is ideal.”

The most popular types are eyebrow microblading, lip blushing, permanent eyeliner and lashline enhancements, and freckle tattoos. Depending on the type of permanent makeup you opt for, techniques, outcomes, and fading will vastly differ. Before you go under the needle, here’s exactly what you need to know about each treatment.

Microblading

Microblading is a technique used to enhance the appearance of eyebrows. The procedure involves using a small handheld tool with ultra-fine needles to deposit pigment and create small, hair-like strokes in the upper layer of the skin, Berry explains. The pigments used in microblading are specifically selected to match the hair color and skin tone of the individual. As a result, Berry says the key to achieving beautiful, natural results is carefully selecting a technician that understands color theory and skin depth.

It’s a fairly ubiquitous option, as it allows clients to simply adjust and enhance the appearance of their brows as needed. It’s especially ideal for those with thin or sparse brows, unevenly shaped brows, those who’ve lost eyebrows due to medical conditions, and anyone looking for a low-maintenance beauty routine.

While the treatment is beneficial for most people, it may not be suitable for those with certain medical conditions (such as bleeding and certain autoimmune disorders), pregnant or breastfeeding women, and those with certain skin conditions (like eczema, rosacea, or psoriasis), as well as anyone undergoing radiation or chemotherapy, Vu warns. If you’re uncertain, always consult with a licensed professional to make an informed decision.

The entire process takes around two hours and requires a touch up anytime after five weeks, followed by subsequent touch ups every one to three years. According to all three experts, an initial microblading appointment costs anywhere between $500 and $3,500 (including the first touch up). Upkeep sessions are on average between $300 and $550 depending on the time frame and artist.

Lip Blushing

"Lip blushing is a design technique used to add a sheer wash of color to the lips,” Bray explains.  “Tiny dots of pigment are added into the area to slowly build the desired amount of coverage.  The artist will use a brushing motion with the needle to achieve this look.”

Lip blushing can also be used to enhance the shape of the lip, making it a great option for those who want to add definition without the surgical commitment of lip implants or dermal fillers, Vu shares. The treatment can also help reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles on the lips. Ink colors and coverage varies depending on individual preferences, enhancing or restoring the natural color of the lips or creating a more vibrant lip shade altogether.

Per Berry, results can last anywhere from one-and-a-half to three years, depending on factors such as the individual’s skin type, lifestyle habits, and daily suncare regimen. And while costs vary depending on location, technique, and technician experience, initial treatment costs tend to be around $900 on average, including a six-week follow-up appointment, according to all three experts. Touch ups then range from $200 to $550 depending on both time frame and artist.

Permanent Eyeliner

Permanent eyeliner is, well, exactly what it sounds like—semi-permanent tattooed eyeliner. The procedure is performed using a small needle attached to a digital pen that pushes pigment into the skin, says Bray. She also notes that pain tolerance varies greatly from client to client.

Like traditional eyeliner, there are many different design techniques that can be done, the most natural of which is the lash-line enhancement. According to Berry, this creates the illusion of a fuller lash base by placing darker pigment in between the lashes. Other popular options include a powdered lashline enhancement, which can best be compared to a smudged lash-line look; thin eyeliner, which features a subtle, skinny line of pigment along the upper lash line; winged liner, which is more dramatic and features a decorative winged look that extends beyond the outer corner of the eye; and dusty winged liner, which features a more smokey, faded winged look. In general, they can be adjusted and applied to suit a client’s desired results.

While it’s a solid option for anyone who wants the look of a darker lash line or the appearance of eyeliner makeup all the time, it’s especially beneficial for clients that have sensitive to topical eyeliner makeup, so they don’t have to worry about irritation from makeup. Meanwhile, those with extremely loose or baggy eyelid skin are not ideal candidates for the treatment, Bray says.

As with other permanent makeup options, results tend to last between one to three years depending on individual factors.

Price can range vastly depending on technique type, location, and technician experience, though both Bray and Berry say treatments can range from $400 to $2,000, which generally includes a six-week follow up.

Freckle Tattoo

Freckle tattoos involve tattooing small, natural-looking freckles onto the skin using a machine or handheld tool that deposits pigment into the skin in a freckle-like pattern. While they’re generally lower on the pain scale compared to other cosmetic tattoos, they’re also extremely difficult to do well.

“The use of pigments in this manner is inconsistent and can discolor, blur, and migrate over time, leaving the client with a negative appearance,” explains Berry.

They also eliminate you as a candidate for any laser treatments on the face in the future, Bray points out, which may deter some people from the option.

According to Bray, freckle tattoos are usually charged per session, as the amount of freckles to build the desired look can greatly vary and may likely require several sessions. She says prices generally range between $200 and $500 a session.

What to Keep in Mind Before Getting Permanent Makeup

You’ll want to keep a few things in mind before getting permanent makeup of any kind.

Choose a Licensed, Experienced Technician

Before getting semi-permanent makeup (or really anytime a needle is going into your skin), it’s important to do research and find a qualified, experienced, and licensed technician. Beyond the risks of potential infection and other risks, there’s the possibility of dissatisfaction with the design and art—and while it’s semi-permanent, we’re talking years, not weeks or months.

“Although cost should be considered, It’s important to choose a licensed professional with a portfolio of successful procedures, rather than making a decision solely based on pricing,” explains Berry.

All of this risk can be avoided (or greatly mitigated) by researching your artist beforehand to make sure they’re licensed and experienced, and that their work matches your particular aesthetic preferences. Bray says thorough conversation regarding your desired outcome and expectations can also help prevent unhappy outcomes.

Be Mindful of Potential Scarring, Risk of Infection, and Other Negative Outcomes

Permanent makeup isn’t without its risks, and it’s important to familiarize yourself with potential negative outcomes. According to Vu, the possibility of risk is real, even if the blade and pigments used are sterilized and carefully chosen.

Potential risks include infection, allergic reaction, expedited fading, uneven results, and scarring. As with any cosmetic treatment, these risks can largely be mitigated by carefully selecting the right technician, as outlined above. It’s also important to follow proper pre- and post-procedure care—more on that in a bit.

Overall, if you have any concerns and hesitations about side effects, ask your artist to walk you through them and take all necessary precautions needed to help minimize the associated risks.

Follow Pre-Treatment Precautions and Aftercare Instructions

“I cannot stress how important it is to follow the aftercare instructions to achieve beautiful results,” Berry says. The same is true of pre-treatment care. While specific instructions will vary depending on your technician and specific type of permanent makeup, there are a few general guidelines you can follow.

In the week or so prior to the procedure, clients should avoid certain medications and substances, such as blood thinners and alcohol, as well as excess sun exposure, topicals such as retinoids and vitamin C, and the use of peels or laser treatments on or surrounding the treatment area.

Post-treatment, keep the area clean and untouched for at least 24 hours—avoid direct water contact, sweating, and exercising for a period of time post treatment. After 24 hours, Bray suggests gently washing the area using just water and a cotton round. Then, apply ointment as instructed by the technician.

Direct water exposure and cosmetics in and around the treatment area should be avoided for seven days post-procedure.

“It’s important to avoid excessive sun exposure for a few weeks as well,” Berry suggests. “Once healed, we recommend sunscreen to protect the area from fading. We also recommend avoiding the application of anti-aging products directly on the treated area.”

When in doubt, ask your technician for specific instructions and be sure to follow them for optimal results.

Remember It’s Not Permanent

Despite the name, cosmetic tattooing is only semi-permanent, meaning you’ll need to continually touch up the results over the years. Touch-up sessions should occur every one to three years depending on a bevy of factors.

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