This collection was meant to be all about tailoring, with Scervino praising Italian craftsmanship and the nimble, experienced hands of his in-house tailors. His aim for spring was to take classic men’s wear tropes — pinstripes, gray flannel and the silk dressing gown — and make them work for day, and for a night on the town.
Cue neat leather jackets, in black or white, cinched at the waist, or with little peplums. Gray wool three-piece suits were dusted with sparkles, or studded with crystal embellishments on the cuff. There was a lovely blue palm print jacket, and a natty white one worn with bright blue silk, striped trousers and a matching belted robe.
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While those tailored pieces made for lovely separates, they couldn’t carry the show, which was a pileup of disjointed outfits. Some even looked as if they’d strolled in from different runways around town.
A short feathery-bottomed confection for evening shared the catwalk with a bright chartreuse hoodie cape, a lineup of glittery, strappy dresses, one with a chainmail top and ruffled tiers on the skirt. Then there was also an opaque green dress with a magnified batik-style print.
It was just too much, and detracted from all that great tailoring that makes Scervino so proud.
Launch Gallery: Ermanno Scervino RTW Spring 2020