Don’t Call ‘Em Trash Fish

DOWNER ALERT: Our love for salmon and other overfished species is—you knew this already—ruining the ocean. Solving this gigantic problem is more complex than this, but hey, let’s do the best we can. You, individual eater with good intentions, can do the planet a teeny tiny favor and order the weird fish instead. Or support a local fishery and embrace the luck of the catch. Chef Jacob Harth of Portland, Oregon’s Erizo, might love the weird fishes most of all. He cooks “stuff we catch on accident,” as in little guys who get scooped up in crab traps (wrong place, wrong time, little guy!). Here are a few recent favorites, lesser-known and lesser-loved creatures found along the Oregon coastline that Harth showcases in delicate, beautiful bites in his stellar tasting menu.

<cite class="credit">Illustration by David Biskup</cite>
Illustration by David Biskup

Wolf Eel

Rich, fatty, and flaky-like fish—because it IS a fish. The eel thing is a misnomer. Wolf eels are objectively hideous, with huge molars from crushing crabs. But wolf eels mate for life, so clearly someone’s into it. When one gets caught in a crab trap, Harth steps in. He smokes it and serves it in a spread, like whitefish dip. “We can use one fish for the whole weekend because it yields 70 to 80 servings,” he says.

<cite class="credit">Illustration by David Biskup</cite>
Illustration by David Biskup

Butter Clam

A big, tender Oregon boy as creamy as his name suggests and sweeter than any scallop you’ve ever had. Harth serves it almost like ceviche, with lemon and olive oil. “It’s the most special thing we have here; it’s like nothing else,” he says. “The fact that it’s not in every restaurant here is baffling.”

<cite class="credit">Illustration by David Biskup</cite>
Illustration by David Biskup

Shield Limpet

Scraped off a rock just for you, this tiny, briny abalone (ahem, snail) is firm and perfect for grilling with a spritz of lemon. Harth tells me it tastes like chicken, but I think he’s joking.

<cite class="credit">Illustration by David Biskup</cite>
Illustration by David Biskup

Gooseneck Barnacles

These guys are ugly as sin but taste like LOBSTER, with a texture that starts off chewy “like a rubber band” and then melts in your mouth. Harth has a license for harvesting them and serves them at the restaurant nearly every week. Kind of a big fan.

Do you like freaky fishes? Follow Chef Jacob Harth on Instagram and see them pop up in your feed when you least expect it. Like huge, flabby oysters. Something called “monkeyface eel” and “spotted nudibranch.” Don’t say I didn’t warn you.

Read more about buying sustainable fish here

Originally Appeared on Bon Appétit