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When I got word that Dior was planning on reformulating the iconic Capture Totale serum, I was skeptical. Tinkering with beloved formulas is tricky business. Can a serum that’s already deemed great truly get even better? The answer is a resounding yes. The new Capture Totale Le Sérum, $100, should earn a top spot on your 2023 vanity for its reputation of firming, smoothing, and plumping.
“Firmness is the new wrinkle,” Virginie Couturaud, Parfums Christian Dior scientific communication director, tells BAZAAR.com. “With this serum, we act on the epidermis level, because we can protect the skin. If you maintain the quality of your epidermis, then you decrease the signs of aging on your dermis.”
Though the improved Le Sérum launched a few days ago, it’s been a staple in my routine for the last two months. I got my hands on the updated formula back in November during a visit to the LVMH lab in Orléans, France, where I received a crash course in the science and technology that make this new serum worth it.
What Does Capture Totale Do?
There’s major science packed into this bottle that we’ll get into in a second. The Dior Capture Totale Le Sérum addresses skin’s firmness first, as well as other signs of aging like loss of radiance, elasticity, and uneven texture. Though wrinkles and loss of elasticity aren’t major concerns for me, I do notice my skin appearing brighter and more radiant after using the serum, and these changes have only continued to improve with each application. Another aspect of the reformulation that I love is the improved product texture. This version absorbs so much more readily and doesn’t leave skin feeling tacky.
What Sets Le Sérum Apart?
Three key ingredients have been combined in Le Sérum: Longoza and Iris extracts, and a newly developed active ingredient called hyaluronic poly-filler. The latter was inspired by injectable fillers and lends an immediate resurfacing and plumping effect. The fermented Longoza extract is cultivated from the Dior Garden in Madagascar and works to firm skin, while Tuscan Iris extracts from Dior’s Garden in Tuscany, Italy, help maintain skin’s radiance by forming a surface shield against damaging UVA rays.
How Does It Work?
Everyone’s skin has stem cells that play a role in the aging process, regardless of the type or tone. This is where the Longoza, nicknamed the phoenix flower, really shines. Here’s the nerdy part: The fermented extract directly targets skin’s mother cells to reverse the effects of aging by converting beta-cells (the aging ones) back into alpha-cells (the young ones) by re-anchoring them to the dermo-epidermal junction (the mechanism that supports the epidermis, or the outer layer of skin). This conversion gives the stem cells the capability to renew. The ability for your epidermis to remain firm and plump depends on the capacity of these mother cells to remain anchored. All this from just one pump of a bottle.
Dior’s New Testing Platform
Dior took testing of this serum one step further to ensure it was truly beneficial for all skin tones. Since its development in the late 1970s, the Fitzpatrick scale has been the go-to system of classification for skin in dermatology and the beauty industry. But a system composed of only six shades of skin (lightest being one and darkest being six) doesn’t accurately illustrate the many colors present in the world.
So when it came time to test the new Capture Totale, LVMH funded an initiative that brought together their R&D scientists and specialized testing centers to create its new T.O.T.A.L. skin-testing platform. With the 110 colors of the PANTONE SkinTone guide (versus the six color grades of the Fitzpatrick classification), Dior is the first LVMH brand to use this new platform to measure the effectiveness of its reformulated Capture Totale Le Sérum. This pioneering system of classification is the most comprehensive skin-testing platform to date.
The Dior Capture Totale Le Sérum is available now online at dior.com.
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