Daniel Roseberry's First Ready-to-Wear Runway for Schiaparelli Offers Surrealism for the Everyday

No animal heads here: The designer maintains the label's ethos while prioritizing wearability.

For Schiaparelli's first-ever ready-to-wear runway show of the Daniel Roseberry era, the designer was on a mission to prove you don't have to sacrifice everyday wearability in order to dress up in fun, magical fashion.

A large black coat with the brand's statement buttons opened the Fall 2023 show. With filled-out, voluminous sleeves and a tame, straight skirt silhouette, this first look set the the intention of the collection: incorporating signature house references into a realistic, day-to-day wardrobe.

Though shown in an opulent ballroom setting, the clothes themselves maintain a neutral color scheme and are arguably unostentatious in essence. Linear silhouettes are a recurring theme throughout, with plenty of legging-like bottoms and straight-leg trousers tucked into sleek knife-toed boots or draped over golden-toed pumps. Suiting is another focal point, but with touches of Schiaparelli flair: Echoing the animals featured in the controversial Spring 2023 Couture presentation, faux fur cloaked the shoulders of otherwise simplistic blazers and dress shirts.

Big, fluffy outerwear contributes to the practical nature of Roseberry's designs. A spotted faux-fur coat was presented over a black turtleneck and the aforementioned black leggings, conveying an outfit that could easily translate off the runway, and a prioritization of staple separates developed for a more practical consumer. Over the same simplistic underlay, an oversized duvet-like parka with a gold-tinted sheen and a white leather cropped puffer jacket appeared shortly thereafter.

In accordance with the ongoing concerns of an imminent recession, Roseberry focused on what the Schiaparelli customer might lean on in times of economic turmoil: clothes that feel special and luxurious, but unassuming and not flashy. This effort made its way into the eveningwear as well, with the designer prioritizing sleek cocktail attire with subtle ornaments, like facial features and keyhole motifs; In some cases, simple little black dresses were met with a singular gold statement necklace and nothing else when it came to embellishments.

References to past collections could be found in new accessory designs, such as a keyhole-shaped clutch and small shopping totes with faces adorning the front.

Overall, it's the surrealism of Rosberry's Schiaparelli, only made for the everyday. To view the full Fall 2023 collection, keep scrolling.

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