“It’s a highly conceptualized presentation, and I knew the look had to be something really extreme—either height or length, and I went for height!” grinned hair pro Guido Palau backstage at Tomo Koizumi’s show on Friday night, where he sculpted Ariel Nicholson’s lengths “incredibly high” into a gravity-defying cone shape, securing them into place around a circular foam shape with blasts of Redken’s Triple Pure 32 Hairspray.
Even amid the Tokyo-based designer’s larger-than-life Japanese organza ensembles and the soaring, statuesque hairstyle, the makeup stuck out—and then some. “It was all about a modern geometric fusion of ’80s experimentation with futuristic elements,” explained Pat McGrath of the Cleopatra-esque winged eyeliner enhanced with hyper-extended swaths of copper, magenta, and deep purple pigment from her new Pat McGrath Labs Mothership VI: Midnight Sun palette. Even with Nicholson’s pale complexion completed with a rich berry lip and swirls of fuchsia blush draped on the cheeks and temples, McGrath’s painterly statements didn’t end there. She added sculptural applications of shimmering liquid gold painted along the hairline, jawline, and along the earlobe, as well.
The inspiration behind the pastiche of retro-futuristic flourishes? German performer Klaus Nomi, singer Grace Jones, and, naturally, the inimitable David Bowie; the latter’s Pierrot-inspired makeup for his “Ashes to Ashes” artwork and music video serving as a guiding star. Referencing some of the most intrepid forward-thinkers of the past while creating a look all her own, who better than McGrath to give rise to the drama of Koizumi’s creations?
Originally Appeared on Vogue