In past years, the hair and makeup at
London Fashion Week has been pretty predictable. Somewhere along the line, out-there aesthetics made way for natural beauty which saw understated eye makeup, dewy skin and neutral colour palettes rule the catwalk. This year, however, it seems London is back in the running for the boldest backstage beauty looks of Fashion Week, even pipping New York and its to the post. Euphoria-inspired eye makeup Makeup legends such as Terry Barber, Miranda Joyce and Pablo Rodriguez are joining forces with hairstyling extraordinaires like Tina Outen, Luke Hersheson and Adam Reed to dream up some of the most striking, Instagrammable trends for spring 2020. We're talking all-encompassing neon eyes, lashings of glitter, waist-skimming plaits and "rave waves" (all will become clear). Click through to find the best beauty looks from London Fashion Week SS20 so far. Mark Fast
"This look takes its cue from the '80s and there's a lot going on," said
's director of artistry,
. There were two eye makeup looks in total: a neon green eye and a striking pink version.
"I washed an acid green eyeshadow from the upcoming Electro Tartan eyeshadow palette across the entire eyelid, almost up to the hairline. Then, I loaded a darker green in the inner corner and underneath the lash line, applied white eyeliner in the waterline and finished off with black mascara."
Intense pink blush juxtaposed the blanket of acid green and was applied high up on the cheeks to look like highlighter.
For the pink look, Pablo used the same palette, dusting clouds of purple pigment in the inner corners and using
Illamasqua's Powder Eye Shadow in Vapour, £17
, a muted yellow-orange hue, as a blush. Brows were groomed and filled in where needed and lips were left bare.
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This 'deconstructed eyeliner' is courtesy of Miranda Joyce for
. The silver chrome highlight in the inner corner is "graphic and futuristic, but not too beautiful," Miranda told R29. Makeup artist Dominic Skinner mixed up the liner colours, combining
eyeliner in teal blue and khaki shades for a "serious, dark, sludgy and military-esque" line that was winged out at the outer corner.
Mascara was applied to the top lashes and brows were brushed but not much thought was given to the skin, according to the artists.
"This is a graphic black eye with a retro spin and a much more glamorous way to do glitter," said makeup artist
, who blanketed
MAC Cosmetics' Cosmetic Glitter in Black
over the top of
Chromacake in Black Black
Sam McKnight took over hair to achieve a "slick, architectural" look. "This is sharp and right back off the face," he said. His tool of choice to keep everything clean and smooth was the new
BaByliss 9000 Cordless Straightener
. Some models were given extensions which were crimped to give the hair weight and texture.
On nails, Marian Newman for
revealed the "reverse French talon" – a see-through, pointed nail with a metallic block colour at the base. "We used a range of
colours and gave them a metallic edge with pigment," said Marian.
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Nineties rave meets '70s disco was the inspiration behind this bold eye makeup look, according to
. "It's Coachella but also Burning Man. It's festival-esque, easy, lived in and loved in. It's blown out, loose and free, and ultimately, it's very David Bowie," he told R29. There were three main colour stories: purple, gold and pink, fashioned using
MAC's Art Library: It's Designer
, holographic flecks of glitter in lime green, silver, orange and fuchsia were washed over the eyeshadow, which was extended down to the cheeks and up to the temple.
For hair, Adam Reed packed
ghd's Oval Dressing Brush
with product and pulled it through from the root to the nape. He used the
ghd Curve Soft Curl Tong
to create kinks and bends within the lengths. "I call this the 'rave wave'. It has a disco rave feel but it's also luxe and modern."
lacquered model's fingernails and toenails with glitter-infused pink polish (coming soon to
) to match the eyes.
More Rejina Pyo
Makeup at Rejina Pyo was fresh and simple with a zesty lime green twist, thanks to artist
. Zoë prepped skin with Lord & Berry's
3 Sublime Moroccan Argan Oil
, so that it looked "sticky and lovely after a long summer's day."
There were two looks in total. The first took inspiration from skin post-facial – "indulgent and expensive," said Zoë, who veiled cheeks with
Cream Bronzer in Tanned and Tawny
. Next, she layered on a touch of
Cream Blush in Coral and Dusty Rose
for a slight flush that spanned the cheeks and bridge of the nose, as though models had just caught the sun.
The second look consisted of a light wash of cream eyeshadow. "This is meant to look painterly and imperfect," said Zoë. Lashes were left naked, brows were brushed up with gel to create that shiny, sleek look you get after a long, luxury facial and a clear balm was tapped on to lips.
More Molly Goddard Hiromi Ueda
created a kissed kohl lip for Molly Goddard. Eyeliner was similarly severe and imperfect, brows were one single scribbled line and blush was loaded on to the cheeks for a pinched effect.
MAC Cosmetics' Terry Barber dreamed up this eye-popping, blocky, neon look using MAC's
. "For the shape, we took inspiration from '50s sunglasses," he told R29. "We wanted to experiment with different ways of shaping the eyes instead of the classic eyeliner in the socket look. This is a rounded, graphic take on a feline eye."
For the second look, colours were picked out from the clothing collection and co-ordinated using makeup. "Think '70s bathroom suites," said Terry. "It's a sick peach. A hayfever peach. A peach that says I've been to a rave all night long." Lips were lacquered in black Chromacake and topped with a slick of
at the last minute for a PVC effect.
For MAC Cosmetics,
had only one brief: 'raw'. "There are gorgeous, natural pink and honey tones," she said. "I applied
on the cheeks and played with different cream blushers like Brit Wit for the flush." Sam worked the blush into the skin by using a damp sponge. Essentially though, the look was very individual, something
matched when styling hair for
"The hair is natural and not too cosmetic," he told R29. "Wavy hair was prepped with the
EIMI Sugar Lift Spray
, and girls with braids had a little bit of oil spritzed through their roots and lengths. "To create the natural, wavy, undone look, wash your hair so that it's super soft and leave it to air dry," advised Eugene. "There's no brush, no curling iron. It's just an enhancement of supernatural beauty."
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"This is clean, gorgeous, beautiful and, as always, minimal," said Pat McGrath using
Victoria Beckham Beauty
. There was a subtle nod to '70s colour with a single burgundy line in the crease, which Pat very delicately painted on using a wet brush dipped into the eyeshadow shade Royal from the Smokey Eye Brick. "While this is a graphic line, the skin is fresh, which makes it pulled together but also natural," said Pat.
Caudalie prepped the skin using its famous
Premier Cru Eye Cream
"This is braided, twisted hair that looks as though she has been in the wild for a few weeks and hasn't washed it," said hairstylist Sam McKnight. Shells and other trinkets were tied into the twists in the centre and hair was given a heavy helping of
Easy-Up Do Texture Spray
to give it that lived-in feel and to keep everything in place.
The clothing collection was traditional, so Isamaya Ffrench for
simply rimmed eyes with jet black kohl. To give the look a slight edge, Isamaya applied lash glue underneath the lower lash line and tapped on a sprinkling of black glitter. "The rest is just great, natural skin. Very wearable."
"The inspiration behind the Spring Summer 2020 collection is a free-spirited woman from the 1960s," said Vincent Ford,
international lead makeup artist. "The beauty look is a modern interpretation of the looks from that era using graphic shapes, hearts and flowers which complement the collection’s patterns.”
For each cheek flower, Vincent used the
Broadway High-Pigment Longwear Eyeliner
Ocean Drive High-Pigment Longwear Eyeliner
The Strip High-Pigment Longwear Eyeliner
Skin was given a glow with the
Copacabana Liquid Illuminator
Hot Sand Liquid Illuminator
Sheer Glow Foundation
Radiant Creamy Concealer
Soft Velvet Loose Powder
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Each model had a completely different look at Pam Hogg. For the up-dos, label.m artistic director Indira Schauwecker prepped hair with
label.m Volume Mousse
and created a centre parting from the top of the ear to the top of the crown.
She blow-dried the hair flat to the head using
label.m's Tourmaline Dryer
, gathered the bottom section into a high ponytail (while liberally applying
to eliminate flyaways) and tied hair with an elastic.
Indira then combed the side sections flat against the scalp, moulded and curved the hair upwards, pinned in place and set with more hairspray before taking a section from underneath the ponytail, wrapping it around the base and pinning it underneath.
"The makeup look this season is all about fresh, innocent skin with a tough, straight eyebrow," said Sada Ito,
global artistry director.
For the base, Sada applied the
Pure Radiant Tinted Moisturizer
Radiant Creamy Concealer
Soft Velvet Pressed Powder
Brows were filled in with different shades depending on the model, such as
Coconut Grove Eyeshadow
, and then set with the
Lips were dressed with a slick of
Clean Cut Afterglow Lip Balm
followed by lipstick in
Tonka. More Bora Aksu
"It's loose, weathered and worn with a tough individual style. Super messy and strong, yet unapologetically feminine," said Tina Outen for L’Oréal Professionnel of these skinny braids with a weathered, textured front.
She relied on cult backstage favourites, such as
L’Oréal Professionnel TECNI.ART Pli
, for shape and ease of styling,
L’Oréal Professionnel TECNI.ART Transformer Texture Lotion
, for an added dishevelled feel, and
L’Oréal Professionnel TECNI.ART Super Dust
, for heaps more texture around the hairline.
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