Beauty Brands Are Catering to Women Over 50—Finally
Until recently, you might’ve assumed that women stop using makeup once they turn 40. After all, most of the models in cosmetics advertisements look like they just got their driver's license. Just ask Isabella Rossellini: Back in 1982, she secured a contract with Lancôme that made her the highest-paid model in the world. Fourteen years later, at age 43, she lost that gig to a 12-years younger Juliette Binoche. Rossellini has said in interviews that the brand flat-out told her they wanted someone younger.
This snub is hardly an isolated incident,and it can be traced back to an old-school marketing mentality. “In what I call the Mad Men era of advertising, marketers wouldn’t speak to anyone over 49,” says Susan Feldman, founder of In the Groove, a beauty and lifestyle website for older women. “Back in the day, the perception was that these women had unwavering loyalty—they weren’t changing their mascara at 55.” Of course, brands probably also figured that pretty people sell beauty products, and for far too long, pretty meant young.While the suits on Madison Avenue were busy courting the next PYT with cash to burn, the 50-plus consumer was woefully cast aside—even when there were products designed for her specific needs. Raise your hand if you’ve seen an ad for a full-coverage, wrinkle-blurring foundation featuring a 19-year-old with a smooth-as-can-be forehead.
The new millennium seemed to bring a subtle shift in this mentality as baby boomers, the largest generation at that time, were reaching midlife. Finally, women over age 50 were showing up in campaigns from major beauty brands. In 2005, Susan Sarandon became a new face at Revlon at age 58. The same year, CoverGirl rehired a then-51 Christie Brinkley as spokesperson for the Advanced Radiance line. That was a good start, but it wasn’t until about five years ago that the 50-plus woman really began to see herself in cosmetics ads. As the industry wakes up to theIn 2014, L’Oréal Paris signed 69-year-old attractiveness of these ladies, it’s Helen Mirren as one of its spokespeople (she’s still with the brand today at 74). More recently, it added 54-year-old Viola Davis to its roster. And Isabella Rossellini?Lancôme invited her back 20 years later. Meanwhile, CoverGirl tapped silver-haired Canadian-born model Maye Musk as a new face at almost 70, StriVectin signed Lauren Hutton at 75, and 86-year-old Joan Collins became the face of Charlotte Tilbury.
The message is clear: Older women are hot. Obviously, the beauty industry has finally realized this woman’s worth. This boomer demographic holds a whopping 70 percent of the disposable income in this country and spends 250 percent of what the population in general does.These women are also genuinely interested in beauty and open to change.Case in point: According to Poshly.com, a website that tracks beauty consumer insights, 64 percent of women over 50 are into the recent contouring trend, up 27 percent from just three years earlier. Nielsen research reveals that 54 percent of women over age 45 purchase cosmetics, compared with only 33 percent of women under 45. What’s more, 75 percent of older women say they’re willing to pay more for a quality product. “Not only does she have a lot of money, but she’s sticking around,” says Feldman. “These women are the healthiest, wealthiest, and most engaged generation in history.”
As the industry wakes up to the attractiveness of these ladies, it's changing the way it markets products for mature skin. Brands and beauty magazines are starting to ditch the impossible concept of “antiaging” and are embracing the idea of living healthfully. “Instead of telling women they shouldn’t get older, we’re moving into a place of celebrating who you are at this moment—the goddess you are at this age,” says the makeup artist Carmindy, who tests her Carmindy Beauty makeup line on 70-year-old skin before it hits shelves,an almost unheard-of move. L’Oréal Paris global makeup director Val Garlandsays new makeup designed for aging skin is no longer about covering wrinkles and flaws, but making it appear healthier. “There’s a wellness factor now,” she says. “It isn’t just makeup—it’s about nurturing the skin.”
Yet there’s still work to be done to truly address ageism. When it comes to racial and ethnic diversity, “beauty seems to be ahead of other categories, but older women still say they’re not seeing themselves reflected in ads and on packaging as much as they should be,” says Feldman. In fact, only 39 percent of women think the beauty industry understands the aging population. Hopefully, cosmetics brands are listening, because, in the sage words of Garland, “if you’re not catering to this woman, you’re missing a trick.”
It’s been 40 years since Shields made the world ponder her Calvins— and she’s not showing any signs of slowing down. In fact, the 54-year-old model and actor feels more hopeful than ever about age inclusivity. “I’ve seen a shift,” she says. “I think it’ll be awhile before everything is balanced, but the pendulum has swung. There used to bea pressure to obtain a particular look. Now we’re truly beginning to celebrate the beauty of women of all ages.”
Some notable moments in beauty, brought to you by a few truly golden girls.
After 35 years in the modeling industry, Webb reached a turning point when she hit 50.“I was dead in the water,” she says. “No one wanted to book women my age, even if you didn’t have wrinkles and were in shape. Over 50 meant you were out of the game.” As a way of addressing such discrimination, she started herpro-aging lifestyle blog, Webb on the Fly. “When you celebrate your age and your beauty without being apologetic, you own your power. It’s so important.”
The comedian and actor prefers the minimal makeup look, and has strong opinions when it comes to cosmetics. “Any rules regarding women over 50 and makeup should be thrown out the window,” says Wentworth.“You see women in their 60s with a white stripe through their hair and bright red lipstick. It’s fantastic! I give my 17-year-old daughter rules. When you’re 50? You can do whatever the hell you want.”
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Though she was scouted by Eileen Ford in 1984, the 51-year-old’s modeling career didn’t begin until four years ago. “My parents were very conservative, so I wasn’t able to fulfill that dream back then,” she says. During her time as a graphic designer, she couldn’t avoid the lack of age inclusion in cosmetics campaigns. “I wanted to see myself reflected. Where are all the women who look like me?” Today the silver-haired beauty has booked gigs with Oribe, Mary Kay, and Clarins.
Author Lois Joy Johnson on the pitfalls of being a boomer who loves sheer foundation and trendy lipstick.
I never believed those women who said that once you hit a certain age, no one paid attention to you anymore...until I hit thatage myself. It dawned on me in the most ordinary fashion. I was waiting at Starbucks for my skinny sugar-free blonde vanilla latte when I realized, at69, I was the oldest person in the line. The barista never looked me in the eye. Forget second glances; I didn’t even get a first one. In truth, I’d been detecting a subtle shift in the way I was perceived for a few months. I was now ma’am, not miss. I’d hear “Would you like a cardigan with that?” when I picked up a sleeveless dress at a store. A manicurist gave me an incredulous glance when I asked for Essie’s After School Boy Blazer nail polish—a fabulously vampy dark blue—and not something like the subtle,appropriate pinky nude of Ballet Slippers. My hairstylist ignored my request for shaggy bangs and textured ends.
The trouble is, I didn’t perceive myself any differently. No shrinking violet, I kept telling the mirror, “You look great,honey!” And I meant it. Then it happened. I sashayed into a French beauty chain known for its multibrand test-before-you-buy attitude and generous sampling. Dressed in my “I’m not old, I’m cool” uniform of a leather jacket, skinny jeans, an oversize sweater, and moto boots, I approached a sales associate to ask for one of the new Laura Mercier tinted moisturizers. Before I could even get the words out, she scanned my face and directed me to the fullest-coverage foundation they had (wall paint, really) and fled, it seemed, to assist younger customers. My indignation began to rise. How dare she age me out of a swoopy cat eye or a killer red lipstick! Maybe I want an edgy incensey perfume and some shimmery eyeshadow. Who is she to judge?
Of course, the problem runs deeper than one clueless salesperson. Brands should be including age in all their diversity training. And how about hiring sales associates from every decade? I can chat with anyone about the new Marc Jacobs liquid glitter shadows. But a concealer that camouflages dark circles without caking or slipping? That’s grown-up talk.
I think the world is ready to hit the beauty counter and see an attractive mature woman staring back—in person or in a photograph. Some of us have even stopped comparing our face at 50 or 60 to the one we had at 35. We’re not all pining for Botox, fillers, or plastic surgery. We just want the new Nars Afterglow Eyeshadow Palette anda Gucci lipstick (so, so divine!). We’re the real rock-star beauty consumers, so let’s stop talking about defying age. I know I have a few wrinkles and brown spots—we greet each other cordially in the mirror every morning. But does that mean I shouldn’t be allowed to feel contemporary, confident, and sexy?
I think not. So wake up, beauty industry: The last time I checked, there was no age cap on fabulous.
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