Is Barcelona too cool for middle-aged men who love dad rock?
Here’s a story I’d hoped never to write. If Covid-19 hadn’t got in the way, June 2020 would have been the moment I finally made it to Barcelona.
Primavera Sound, the rock festival held annually on the seafront, was the lure: specifically a roster of the sort of middle-aged bands and artists that I have long attempted to relive my youth through: Massive Attack, The Strokes, The National, Pavement and Beck.
My middle-aged male friends and I had sorted our tickets and an Airbnb. It was going to be just like the old days. Yes, yes, I know what you’re thinking: lame. But I’m a dad who likes dad rock. Sorry.
The other thing you’re thinking is: what on earth took you so long to plan a visit? Don’t get me wrong: I love Spain. Andalucia, the Atlantic Coast, Madrid... but Barcelona? Everyone said I should go; most assumed I already had.
However, the city has always felt too stylish for me, too much about looking hot and feeling cool, a combination I have never quite got the hang of. The nightlife sounded fun, I was drawn to the hubbub of Las Ramblas, but in the end I was never quite tempted enough. Perhaps I just don’t like sand in my espadrilles.
Anyway: I needed the push, and that push was vintage pop. Now, of course, vast gatherings of past-their-prime blokes are off the menu for a while, and Primavera Sound 2021 has already sold out. To save my blushes, I’ll have to make do with a Gaudí tour instead.
Five top things to do on your first visit to Barcelona
Our expert Sally Davies shares her favourite corners of the city
1. Wander around El Born, with its medieval buildings and an increasing number of charming cafés and boutiques. Its central axis is the Passeig del Born – flanked with the glorious Santa Maria del Mar church at one end and the Born Centre de Cultura at the other.
2. Take a “Camp Nou Experience” tour at FC Barcelona. When they resume as public events, go to a match. fcbarcelona.cat
3. Gaudí’s basilica, Sagrada Família, is still a work in progress, but the last decade has seen dramatic growth. The molten waxlike spires of the Nativity facade and the stark, angular sculpture of the Passion facade are well known, but detail erupts everywhere. Take the lift up one of the spires for an aerial view, though the steep descent is not for vertigo sufferers.
4. Stand up at the bar at Cal Pep and watch the team working the stoves. There is no shtick at this tapas-bar-cum-restaurant, apart from superbly fresh seafood, simply served. For non-fish-eaters, try the “atomic tortilla” with butter beans and blood sausage. calpep.com
5. The name of El Xampanyet refers to the house cava, which is dirt cheap and traditionally served to a lively clientele of inquisitive tourists and locals. You’ll find a bright, tiled bar with wineskins hanging from the ceiling and a selection of simple tapas along the bar. elxampanyet.es
For the full guide to Barcelona see telegraph.co.uk/tt-barcelona.
