Bally held its fall coed show at Milan’s Casa degli Atellani, the 15th-century town house home to Leonardo Da Vinci’s vineyard, the only existing wine-producing estate in the center of the metropolis, and decorated with masterpieces throughout. The scene at the storied landmark was as contemporary as it could get with screaming fans greeting K-pop Seventeen star DK, Lori Harvey, J Balvin and — arriving fashionably late — Adrian Brody with Georgina Chapman.
“This is a stunning location, what better place to show a collection that respects history with a twist?” Bally creative director Rhuigi Villaseñor said backstage. That twist, however, needs to be “an exclamation mark,” argued the designer, who is building Bally’s fashion collections with his bold sense of style.
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He admitted he was moving away from the Los Angeles vibe that ran through his first collection for the brand in September, further emphasizing the luxury codes he believes are embedded in Bally.
Outerwear was a strong proposition and he presented several snakeskin trenches and faux-fur coats in vibrant colors, from burgundy to purple. An oversize parka in velvet with large bows is sure to help a lady make an entrance.
Villaseñor’s woman for Bally is sensual without too much fuss. Cue Irina Shayk in a long velvet dress with cutouts. She looked sensational. The brand’s name was spelled out in gold over a strap on the back. These metallic details popped up here and there, as did gold buttons on a double-breasted jacket for example.
While mainly monochromatic, the looks were often worn with printed silk scarves around the neck. The foulards also appeared as details on the structured bags.
Villaseñor knows he has to stay true to Bally’s core accessories business — footwear in particular — and the category did not disappoint, with a plethora of boots in several hides. Men’s pin-striped suits were jazzed up with knee-high boots, for example.
It was a solid sophomore collection for the designer, who is gaining confidence in leaving his stamp on the brand — and that exclamation mark.
Launch Gallery: Bally RTW Fall 2023
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