How to Apply Makeup on Eczema-Prone Skin, According to Experts

I have a seasonal itch. I don’t mean the tickle in my nose when the air fills with pollen. I’m talking about the little patch of eczema on my right hand that starts to prickle when the seasons change. Now, don’t get me wrong, it’s great to have your own personal groundhog-like abilities (I’ve even learned to embrace it over the years), but if you’ve also been a long-time sufferer of atopic or contact dermatitis, aka eczema, you know it isn’t fun. Sometimes the smallest of patches are the most uncomfortable to deal with. I can’t tell you how many times I’ve woken up by the tiny, two-inch area on my ring finger itching and throbbing in the middle of the night.

I have it on my face and the back of my neck, too. Every time I test out a new skin-care or makeup product, I pray it doesn’t irritate the eczema on my left cheek. Luckily, that area doesn’t flare up often, but when it does, my self-confidence tends to plummet. I can’t help but feel like I’m playing the skin version of Russian roulette when applying an unfamiliar formula for the first time. A tiny risk I have to take when it comes to being a beauty editor.

For those moments the eczema patch on my face chooses to make an appearance, I asked both board-certified dermatologists and makeup artists how to safely apply — and wear — makeup to eczema-prone skin.

First, calm the area.

“Apply a cool compress to help reduce inflammation,” says Mona Gohara, a board-certified dermatologist based in Connecticut. An oatmeal soak is another quick, at-home remedy if you’re in a pinch. “Mix some oatmeal in water and put a gauze in it,” she advises. Apply the soaked piece of gauze to the inflamed area.

Keep the makeup minimal.

“To be truthful, it is generally not advisable to put any makeup over actively inflamed skin, but if you do, it should be minimal,” Gohara tells Allure. “Steer clear of products with fragrance, glitter, or shine.”

Shari Marchbein, a board-certified dermatologist based in New York City, also recommends looking for products with the phrases “hypoallergenic” and “fragrance-free” on their labels. “Hypoallergenic is a term used when pertaining to cosmetics that literally means the products and ingredients are unlikely to cause an allergic reaction,” she says. “Using hypoallergenic or fragrance-free products are important for those with sensitive or eczema-prone skin.”

Apply a barrier.

Having eczema means your skin barrier is comprised, which could lead to redness, flaking, and irritation. “Barrier creams, such as Vaseline, are a reliable way to keep moisture in and irritants out,” Gohara shares.

When prepping skin with eczema, Tommy Napoli, a New York City-based makeup artist, reaches for a primer, another barrier option, before applying makeup. “I prime with non-mattifying silicone primers to help cocoon skin and buffer between skin and makeup,” says Tommy.

He finds Nyx Professional Makeup High Glass Face Primer to be protective and nourishing on compromised skin in need of covering. “Most cosmetic silicones evaporate off the skin, but while they’re there, they can help to alleviate the stress of makeup and offer a more smooth surface where cracks and dryness are mitigated,” he shares.

Skip the powder products.

Cream-based products are the way to go for eczema-prone skin, advises both Tommy and New York City-based makeup artist Nam Vo. “Powders add texture upon texture,” says Vo.

Tommy finds that cream blush and bronzer can be gentler on the skin, though. “Liquid foundations or anything with a dry-down tends to dry out, cling, and exacerbate eczema’s texture,” he says. “Sticks and creams do not compromise the skin underneath them.”

For base makeup, he recommends Kevyn Aucoin Foundation Balm for its buildable coverage and softening formula, which lays smooth while covering. The formula has vitamin E for added skin support.

Gohara suggests looking into skin-friendly brands such as Dermablend and Colorescience for non-irritating base makeup. The Dermablend Flawless Creator foundation is an Allure favorite — it won a Best of Beauty Award in 2018. For on-the-go, Colorescience Loose Mineral Foundation Brush SPF 20 is great for touch-ups.

Use your fingers.

When it comes to application, minimizing friction is key. Firm brushstrokes and too much blending can increase eczema symptoms, such as flaking. “Pat on skin care and makeup,” says Tommy. “[Use] gentle brushes or sponges with as little rubbing as possible.” This, he says, will also help prevent caking.

For lighter coverage, he suggests using a color-correcting product, like L.A. Girl High-Definition Concealer. “The more product on dry skin, the flakier and cakier the result,” he says. If you have a golden undertone use yellow or green for redness. For darker tones, try peach or orange, and use blue for fairer skin.

If you do have to set, use a fine powder.

Nam reaches for hydrating formulas like La Mer The Powder and Givenchy Prisme Libre No. 3 Voile Rosé. They both contain oils and silicones that help provide emolliency. “If you have to use a powder, you don’t want the client to look like a pancake on top of something that’s already dry and textured,” she says.

You can always distract.

It’s OK to leave your skin alone and forgo makeup altogether. In fact, sometimes covering up may be doing more harm than good. “When having an eczema flare, trying to cover it with makeup may exacerbate it,” says Marchbein. “I would generally recommend against it while acutely inflamed and itchy.

For example, if you have eyelid eczema that’s flaring up, you should stop all makeup and focus on moisture to repair the skin barrier. “The most important step is trying to calm the inflammation and repair the skin barrier,” she says. “This is done with topical steroid prescriptions and gentle skin care.”

Instead, play up a different area like the lips to help draw attention from flared areas. “I’ll often ask clients if they want me to put on false lashes or do something to distract,” says Vo.

Cleanse and replenish as soon as possible.

As soon as you’re done wearing makeup (i.e. after that Zoom meeting), it’s important to wash it off right away. The quicker you get your makeup off the sooner you’re able to apply any treatments to help calm and nourish your skin.

Again, when washing avoid friction and tugging on the skin — especially when removing makeup. Marchbein recommends using a gentle cleanser, like Neutrogena Ultra Gentle Daily Cleanser, with warm water only when cleansing (as opposed to hot).

Follow it up quickly by applying a thick layer of creamy moisturizer within 60 seconds. “Look for moisturizers with ceramides to help replace those stripped away in dry skin, as well as humectants such as hyaluronic acid and glycerin,” says Marchbein. “CeraVe Moisturizing Cream is one of my all-time favorite body and face moisturizers and contains ceramides (a lipid naturally found in skin), glycerin, and hyaluronic acid to pack a powerful punch of deep moisturizing and hydration.”

Together the ingredients work with cholesterol and fatty acids to create a healthy skin barrier and retain moisture in the skin, which, in turn, will help prevent future flares.

Originally Appeared on Allure